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Jun
30
comment Are older road bike parts compatible with newer standards? How do older and newer bikes match up performance wise?
My bike is early 90's, 126mm hub (7 speed), freehub, 700c wheels. I bought it new though :-) I've recently respaced the frame to 130mm and fitted a new groupset (with brakes swapped for long reach ones to fit). The wheels weren't the originals even before that, but were the same size. Buying a new bike might have been more rational than the upgrade though.
Jun
12
comment Adjusting brake rub on a mini-v brake (Giant Propel)
It's not labelled on the photo of the parts, but it's shown in the drawing for "5. Center the brake arms by turning the spring tension screw (align to seat stay)" on page 4.
Mar
27
comment In practical terms, how often do you have to adjust the belt tension of a belt drive bicycle?
Timing chains in car engines also last many thousands of miles without replacement or adjustment, but it would be wrong to conclude that therefore bike chains can do the same.
Mar
27
comment Pull Inexperienced Tandem Stoker?
See also gtgtandems.com/tech/propmethod.html for "The stoker makes no mistakes".
Mar
27
comment How to remove a stuck seatpost?
Am I sure? No. The rust in the cable guide could be entirely from the cable, the rust inside the hole for the missing seat bolt could be from the missing bolt. But cheap steel frames can be fairly thick. The original poster should definitely check carefully before resorting to extreme measures.
Mar
26
comment Is it possible to remove wheel without loosening the (V) brakes
If you could add a photo (or photos, with brakes both applied and not applied) of your brakes, it might help.
Mar
26
comment Is it possible to remove wheel without loosening the (V) brakes
Loosen the locknut on the barrel adjuster, screw it into the lever to create some slack, assuming it isn't all the way in already, unhook noodle. When done, screw the adjuster out to take up slack, then do up the locknut again. Assuming you have similar adjusters to most. But that isn't normally necessary, it's a workaround for not being able to use the quick release, so look into changing the noodle and/or which washers/pads you are using too.
Mar
26
comment How to remove cantilever brake arm?
Depends on the frame. Weld on or braze on bosses are common, e.g. framebuilding.com/Bosses.htm
Mar
26
comment How to work around a high seatpost?
If it's only very slightly too high, then it might be possible to swap the saddle for one that is slightly lower when mounted on the same post. If it's an old style clamp mount (sheldonbrown.com/harris/images/ST4200.jpg), you might be able to mount a saddle (not necessarily the current one) with the rails clamped at the bottom rather than the top. But getting it unstuck is the real answer.
Mar
26
comment Is it possible to remove wheel without loosening the (V) brakes
You might be able to slacken the cable slightly using the barrel adjusters on your levers. Remember to re-adjust them so that you can apply the brakes properly when you have put the noodle holder back at the end.
Mar
25
comment How to remove a stuck seatpost?
Looks like rust on a steel frame, but aluminium oxide on the seatpost. Which means that worst case, Sheldon's option 14, caustic soda, will work. I've done it.
Mar
25
comment Is threadless a noticeable difference from threaded headset setups?
If a quill stem isn't overtightened, it will also allow your handlebars to rotate relative to your stem in a crash situation. I suspect the difference is less quill vs threadless and more steel vs carbon. sheldonbrown.com/handsup.html "If a bicycle has an older quill stem with a conical expander, it is normal to be able to turn the handlebars with moderately strong hand force, when standing in front of the bicycle and holding the front wheel between the legs. Turning the handlebars will be more difficult if the stem has a wedge."
Mar
25
comment How to make a cargo trailer?
Assorted links on trailer building (some of them dead) - chiark.greenend.org.uk/~armb/cycling/trailer.html
Mar
18
comment Can I use a 9-speed shifter with a 8-speed cassette?
(I've been using the "Campag old 9 Hubbub S7" setup for some years; it's not just for makeshift repairs. But I now have a shiny new Tiagra groupset for that bike.)
Mar
18
comment Can I use a 9-speed shifter with a 8-speed cassette?
ctc.org.uk/cyclists-library/components/transmission-gears/… has a photo showing how to reroute the cable for a 9 speed cassette to work with an 8 speed shifter. My guess is that doing something more like the "New Dura-Ace convert to old style" diagram on that page could do the reverse. I agree a photo of his setup would help.
Mar
17
comment Cannot reach the bearing adjustment nut on rear wheel
No, it's normal that you can't: parktool.com/blog/repair-help/hub-overhaul-and-adjustment madegood.org/bikes/repair/adjust-a-cup-and-cone-rear-hub bikemagic.com/how-to/mountain-bike-maintenance/… roadcyclinguk.com/how-to/maintenance/…
Mar
6
comment Can i fit a 6 speed wheel onto a 5 speed bike?
I hadn't realized 5 speed indexed gearing even existed, but it seems it did. I'd still expect almost all 5-speeds to be friction shift though. Or at least be switchable to friction shift.
Feb
11
comment Terminology index - a list of bike part names and cycling concepts
Suspension - it's not just that it's unnecessary for typical users, but that cheap suspension will add weight and absorb pedalling energy for little or no benefit. (An unpractised rider on pot-holed roads may well benefit from wide tyres though, if not knobbly ones). Also, the typical bike shaped object is heavy, being cheap steel tubes which are both large (to imitate the look of better aluminium frames) and thick-walled (to compensate for cheap steel with cheap welding being weaker). The one illustrated is far from the worst available.
Feb
5
comment Combining flat bar and aerobar: Double stem setup or alternatives?
The link is broken for me now, try sheldonbrown.com/org/thorn/index.html Maybe his Surly was using two non-quill stems, but on the Thorn the upper handlebar is on a quill stem, so you don't need any more steerer exposed than a single stem.
Feb
5
comment Is it safe to use a spacer that reaches above the steerer tube?
Spacers above the stem are needed to hold the stem in place while you do up the stem (assuming the top of the stem is below the top of the steerer). Once the stem is done up, then keeping the cap (and any spacers) is purely aesthetic (you really shouldn't be relying on it as backup for clamping the stem).