Reputation
35,188
Next tag badge:
117/100 score
19/20 answers
Badges
1 36 101
Newest
 Nice Answer
Impact
~2.8m people reached

May
23
comment Should I remove the chain before installing new rear derailleur?
Old derailers (20-30 years ago) were designed to be opened. New ones, not so much.
May
23
answered Cost of maintenance of a roadbike
May
23
comment What tools on a multi-tool do I actually need?
I can do it twice as fast with one Quik Stick as you can with a handful of levers.
May
23
comment Converting my bike to use quick release wheels
It's a definite MAYBE. You'd have to rebuild the "bolt on" hubs you have to replace the solid axles with hollow ones, or replace the wheels entirely. You'd not have "lawyer lips". And the existing axles may be oversize and QR wheels might not fit well, or there may be other reasons why the skewers will not clamp tightly enough on your frame.
May
23
comment how to pump up schrader valve bike?
This link shows the Schrader and Presta valves.
May
23
comment how to pump up schrader valve bike?
A Schrader has no nut securing the valve. It does have a "valve core" which can be unscrewed for replacement or to let the air out of the tire, but you should leave that alone. If instead you mean Presta, there are several good descriptions here on how to inflate one. (And I doubt that any normal bike tire can be properly inflated with 5 pushes of a floor pump.)
May
22
comment Is there any replacement for the chainrings of a Shimano STX crankset?
Sheldon to the rescue: sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html#stx
May
22
comment What tools on a multi-tool do I actually need?
No, for the tires you only need one Quik Stick.
May
22
comment What is the width of Giant CR41, 32-hole rims
@Kibbee - Well, you only need to come within about 2mm, and you should be able to "eyeball" that close with a ruler held across the rim.
May
21
comment What is the width of Giant CR41, 32-hole rims
If you have the rims, why not just measure them? A ruler can't be that hard to come by. (Or mark off the distance on a piece of paper and carry it to where some sort of scale is available.) With a mm rule you should be able to get within 2mm or so of the correct number, certainly close enough for tire sizing. Just remember you want the INSIDE dimension, between the rim sides.
May
21
comment Is having your hands “on the hoods” of drop handlebars safe for braking?
OTOH, if you're going downhill and not trying to set any speed records it's best to maximize your wind resistance, which means sitting up higher, on the hoods or on the top bar. This reduces the need for braking. (Just sayin')
May
21
comment What tools on a multi-tool do I actually need?
@StephenTouset - Yep, though one should carry a couple of "speed links" or whatever you want to call them, and a short piece of chain, if you want to be prepared for chain breaks. You still need the breaker to "clean up" a broken chain and to cut the replacement chain to length.
May
21
comment What tools on a multi-tool do I actually need?
Simple answer: You need the tools that fit YOUR bike. In general you want an Allen wrench for every size screw on the bike (anything can come loose mid-ride), plus a basic spoke wrench, and a screwdriver that will fit the adjusting screws on your derailers. A knife blade can be useful, but can be carried separately. Pliers are occasionally useful, but not often enough to be worth it, IMO. (Of course, you also need tire changing tools.)
May
21
comment Is having your hands “on the hoods” of drop handlebars safe for braking?
I have a harder time braking from the drops. I have to slide my hands all the way forward and awkwardly onto the curve to reach. It's a motion that can be done in half a second, but on the drops your hands are there already. (Of course a lot depends on the specific geometry of your bar and the position of the levers.)
May
21
comment How to calculate bike stand-over height using frameset geometry and wheel radius?
@Kibbee - Yep, with a large picture and the dimension of one tube you should be able to get the standover height pretty accurately, just by figuring proportions. A little iffy on the small pictures you're often given, though.
May
20
comment Raleigh AT20 series bottom bracket affects derailleur
Does the BB have adjustable cups on both sides, or just one? If there are adjustable cups on both sides you may have gotten them misadjusted. Also, if this a loose-bearing BB or a cartridge with two adjustable cups you may have installed the axle backwards. Or it may be that you simply do not have the BB cartridge fully seated into the recesses of the cups.
May
20
comment Chain Lube Compatibility?
Any decent chain oil should do. You don't need to clean between different oils unless you're switching between a purely synthetic oil (eg, Teflon with no petroleum "vehicle") and a petroleum-based oil. (At your rate of use you should clean your chain every month or so, more often in wet weather or dusty conditions.)
May
20
awarded  frames
May
19
comment Rear derailleur and front shifter are not indexing “together”?
Here is an extensive article on cables, probably more than you wanted to know, and another article on derailer adjustment, probably a better fit for your immediate needs.
May
19
comment Rear derailleur and front shifter are not indexing “together”?
Replacing a cable is not rocket science, but it requires some mechanical skill and intuition. It's hard to tell what you did to it (did you physically disconnect the cable?) but anytime the cable is disconnected (or somehow loosened such that it's tension changes) then it needs to be re-adjusted. Small adjustments can be performed with the "barrel adjusters" usually found inline in the cables or where the cable exits the shifter. Larger adjustments require loosening the cable clamp and moving the cable in/out.