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4h
comment Does anyone have any special notes on buying pannier racks?
To a degree it depends on what works. But I see no reason to go with steel (which will rust) when there are excellent AL racks on the market.
4h
comment I don't want knobby tires
Of course, you can get relatively smooth tires in pretty much any width (except perhaps the 4-inch size). But without knowing your rim width, 1.75 is probably a safe width, as Batman suggests. (But note that if you want to reduce rolling resistance you should run a relatively high pressure -- probably 50-75psi on a 1.75, and proportionally higher as you go narrower.)
4h
comment When not used, what gear should I store my bike in
I have my doubts whether this is at all a significant issue. Far more stress is put on the cable when shifting, and "stretch" is more due to wear/flex on the cable than tension. And standard wire springs will last for centuries under pressure -- corrosion and flexing is what gets them.
4h
comment Third tube puncture in 3 weeks
It helps if you carefully remove the tube and mark it and the tire somehow so that you know what it's position was relative to the tire and the rim. Then, when you find the leak, you only need check a small area of the tire and rim.
20h
comment How can I assess my torque wrench?
You can easily set up a test jig if you understand what you're measuring. 20 Nm is a force of 20 Newtons applied to a lever that is one meter long. (1 Newton is about 102 grams.)
20h
comment When not used, what gear should I store my bike in
For a given bike or given set of storage circumstances there may be a difference based on how likely the gears are to jam as you manipulate it in the storage area. But you'd learn this from experience.
23h
comment Is there a standard equivalent for effort between distance and elevation?
@R.Chung - My point is that you have to factor in speed, so it's not a simple equivalent between climb and miles.
1d
comment Foot pain with cleated shoes
If you are actually feeling the cleat inside your shoe then one suspects that it lacks a proper stiffener to spread the force out over a larger area. Or the cleat position may not be properly set. (And it would help to know what sort of cleat and pedal you're using.)
1d
comment Rim compression after tire inflation
The only problem you're reporting is some "ting" sounds as the tire was inflated? Did the wheel become untrue, or are spoken now noticeably loose? ("Ting" sounds during the first dozen miles after truing a wheel are fairly common.)
1d
comment Is there a standard equivalent for effort between distance and elevation?
(I'll add that I've been wondering if there is any "science" that will calculate the rate of fatigue due to climbing, say, a 10% hill vs a 5% one. One suspects that a 10% hill is more than twice as fatiguing as a 5% hill.)
2d
comment Finding better routes than bicycle apps suggest
I think it's a big order to do this from topo maps. Two roads that show the same grade may have vastly different topography when viewed on a scale of a few dozen feet. And no map shows road conditions. (And I wouldn't want to climb a 15% hill if I could avoid it,)
2d
comment What does this road sign mean?
Something like a deer crossing or tractor crossing warning??
2d
comment Loose Handlebars
There are several different schemes for mounting handlebars, and two major schemes for how the handlebar stem attaches to the front fork. We need to know a little more about your bike and problem to be of much help. (Is the handlebar actually loose, or does it simply not line up with the tire?)
2d
comment Disadvantages of Riding Larger Frame Sized Bike than Reccomended Frame Sized Bike
I had a slightly oversized (by perhaps 5cm) touring bike for 15 years. I had to change out the stem (to a taller one with less forward extension) to get my arms and shoulders comfortable. I don't recall any other serious problems.
2d
comment Tire Continually going flat
@altomnr - On rare occasions the spoke was too long from the factory, or it is failing and has stretched more than the rest.
2d
comment Bicycle Frame: anodized Aluminium?
@NhânLê - "Rust" is (by most definitions) an oxide of iron, has a red/brown color, and is only possible with iron-containing alloys. I'm not seeing anything that looks like rust in the pictures. Corrosion can occur with most metals (anodizing is actually a form of controlled corrosion), but all I see of that (aside from the anodizing proper) is some "blotchiness" on the anodized surface, which is fairly normal, plus the speckling near the bottom of the seat tube, which is also reasonably normal.
2d
comment mix left shifter and font derailleur of different speed
The front derailer is generally not nearly as fussy as the rear with regard to the "match" between shifter and derailer. This is doubly true for a 2x front vs a 3x. But, lacking appropriate specs (which are hardly ever available), the only way to know for sure is to try it.
Jul
1
comment Can you inflate a completely flat tire?
Yeah, rotate the tire until the valve is at the 3 oclock or 9 oclock position, then press your thumb against the tire very hard while pressing the chuck onto the valve. You need to force the valve out with your thumb pressure in order to get the chuck all the way on.
Jul
1
comment Bicycle Frame: anodized Aluminium?
Yeah, the color looks to be a stain added during the anodizing process.
Jul
1
comment Bicycle Frame: anodized Aluminium?
Yeah, the photos don't appear.