33,486 reputation
13295
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location Minnesota, USA
age
visits member for 3 years, 8 months
seen 3 hours ago

Old, tired, crazy.


Jan
7
comment What do I do if my bike won't pump with a air pump at all?
Possible if it's a "used" bike.
Jan
6
comment New bike hubs way over-tightened?
It seems plausible that the "kid" decided to work on the bike himself, and is responsible for what you're finding, or perhaps the seller himself did. The seller it may have been feigning ineptness to avoid discussing this.
Jan
6
comment Is it necessary to buy a special tool to open the chain lock
You can use needlenose pliers, or the trick described by Fred.
Jan
6
comment Is it ethical to use an abandoned bicycle in my parking garage?
The question, of course, is whether it's truly abandoned. If it is then there's no ethical issue with using it, but there's no real way to know (especially for us in a different culture). Suggestion: Air up one of the tires and see how long it takes to go flat. If you fill the tire to, say, 50 psi and it's still above 40 psi a week later then (if the tires are completely flat now) likely the bike's been sitting there for a year or so. If the tire flattens faster it may only be a month or two, and the owner could be out of town or some such.
Jan
5
comment 2mm clearance between the chainstay and the rear tire
So long as the tire doesn't rub it's fine.
Jan
5
comment What do I do if my bike won't pump with a air pump at all?
@W1ll1amvl - Oops! Will fix that!
Jan
4
comment Do I need to use thread locker or spoke prep when building wheels if spokes come pre-treated?
I've used spoke prep the last couple of times I built wheels, and it seemed to make things go a hair smoother. However, the spokes I used were not "pre-treated".
Jan
4
comment Make rim braking efficient
I assume that Celsius, so it's not terribly cold, but cold enough that you may need a softer pad. If Fahrenheit then you definitely need a softer pad. I'm not familiar with the various brands, but there may be something designed for colder temps. Otherwise, check out the pads as your local brake shop to see what feels a bit softer than your current ones when you press your fingernail into it. (You don't want terribly soft since that will be "grabby".)
Jan
4
comment What year and model is this Schwinn Girls Banana seat bike?
It's a pretty generic bike, and nothing much to "date" it. You'd have go find a Schwinn fan site somewhere that catalogs them to identify it.
Jan
4
comment Make rim braking efficient
Likely your pads are getting harder. And they were perhaps too hard to begin with.
Jan
4
comment Any idea what this franken bike is?
It's a lugged frame, almost certainly steel, placing it prior to about 1990 or so. The crank is cottered, placing it prior to about 1980. The cables are mostly fully sheathed vs running between bosses, placing it after 1970 or so. The component quality appears to be relatively low end.
Jan
3
comment Brake cable shaking at the end of the brake caliper
The fittings you see are used for adjusting brake cable tension. After the "rough" length of the cable has been set by sliding the cable in and out of the clamp at the other end, the left-most knob is "unscrewed" to do fine adjustment. Then the thin nut (a "lock nut") is tightened back against the brake lever housing to hold the adjustment.
Jan
3
comment How to find compatible cranks?
(And note that you can screw things up pretty bad if you do not properly install the crank arms, so you might be best off leaving this all to a shop.)
Jan
3
comment How to find compatible cranks?
The critical features are 1) the sort of connection between crank arm and crank shaft, 2) the length of the arm (though this can be changed if you wish), and 3) how the chainrings mount. Hard to be sure from the picture, but it appears that your chainrings are riveted to the crank, meaning they must be replaced as a set.
Jan
3
comment How does a bicycle tyre and wheel affect its performace and speed?
@munish - I have no real feel for how high you can "safely" go with tire pressure. I'm comfortable with 100psi in my 35s, but would be a bit nervous about going higher. And a lot depends both on the quality of the tire and the nature of the roadways.
Jan
2
comment Crank threads stripped - both pedals fell off
(And be careful when installing the pedals after repairing/replacing the cranks. A burr formed on the pedal from the prior stupidity can easily spoil the new threads.)
Jan
2
comment Crank threads stripped - both pedals fell off
They were either cross-threaded or threaded into the wrong side. It's amazingly easy to drive a steel thread (especially the "rolled" threads of a pedal) into aluminum at the wrong angle or even the wrong direction. There is resistance, but it doesn't get harder as you go, making the "mechanic" think he's "making progress". Unfortunately, after two years convincing Halfords that it's their fault will be difficult, but it's worth a try.
Jan
2
comment Crank threads stripped - both pedals fell off
Odds are that whoever assembled the bike at Halfords put (ie, forced) the left pedal in the right crank and vice-versa. (Although, looking at the pictures, the left-hand pedals does have a left-hand thread, as it should.) You need to either replace the crank arms or have a machine shop install "helicoils".
Jan
1
comment Is there a guide available for determining pedal/cleat combinations?
Just off the top of my head, the other halfway-common styles are the Shimano SPD-SL (much larger cleat, for road bikes), the Look plate pedals, and the Crank Brothers "eggbeaters".
Jan
1
comment Is there a guide available for determining pedal/cleat combinations?
Yeah, Shimano "mountain" SPD. Probably the most popular style for non-racing bikes. There are several different pedal designs that all use that same cleat, and the shoes fitted for them are mostly interchangeable.