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seen Jun 4 at 23:05

Jan
29
comment derailleur P-screw/B-screw does absolutely nothing
@DanielRHicks i opened the whole thing, removed all springs, scrubbed a little superficial rust layer from the inner parts and removed the clogged up old grease, packed everything back with parktool grease that was within shimano spec. THe main spring that is what the P/B-screw affect has no way to be put in wrong, i guess...
Jan
29
comment derailleur P-screw/B-screw does absolutely nothing
@Alexander sorry, saw the mistake now. fixed it on the question. Thanks!
Jan
29
revised derailleur P-screw/B-screw does absolutely nothing
fixed the front gear sizes
Jan
29
revised derailleur P-screw/B-screw does absolutely nothing
added 1 characters in body
Jan
29
comment Is this a puncture protection thing?
no i mean rim tape. was just comparing that this, which everyone makes you believe is very hard to use, is actually easier to put in place than the rim tape (the one that prevents puncture from the spokes into the rim). I think i will probably never buy a puncture resistant tire, as this one is reusable, and i will generate less garbage in the world by buying just new rubber :)
Jan
29
comment derailleur P-screw/B-screw does absolutely nothing
@Batman after 4 days, you pass that line where it is now too embarrassing to not fix it and too shameful to look for help.
Jan
29
comment derailleur P-screw/B-screw does absolutely nothing
@DanielRHicks it is aligned perfectly, it is just eh distance from the guide to the freewheel lowest gears. And you are probably right... maybe i screwed up when opening it... will probably open it again and go over all the steps. all the painfully boring steps of reassembly a rear derailleur :( ...first i will make sense of sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ca-g.html#capacity and make double sure the part is being used in the right place as you mentioned on the 1st comment
Jan
29
revised derailleur P-screw/B-screw does absolutely nothing
edited title
Jan
29
comment derailleur P-screw/B-screw does absolutely nothing
@DanielRHicks this is the original that shipped with the bike. It is working on a 5sp freewheel, that is also original. Later years that model was used even with a 6sp with the lower one with 2 more teeth. i'm sure it is something dumb i'm doing. or maybe 20+yrs are too much for the components... though i cleaned it up and lubed last year, this is the first time i'm fine tunning it. Edit, yes i read the parktool guide and others. i'm 4days into this :( with lots of reading in between. the B-Screw/P-screw does zero. nada. nothing.
Jan
29
asked derailleur P-screw/B-screw does absolutely nothing
Jan
27
comment Is this a puncture protection thing?
update if anyone interested: decided to get a slimer, slicker tire for the rear. couldn't get a decent slick with puncture protection for less than $80 here, so I just reused that thing. in the new tire. installation was nothing like the sheldon page seems it look like. you just slide it there, fill the tube and it stays in place. I just cut it to length. pretty easy. it is easy to feel it trhu the slick tire to make sure it is in place before you pump. overall it was 10x easier than installing the rim tape properly.
Jan
8
accepted Is this a puncture protection thing?
Jan
8
comment Is this a puncture protection thing?
i couldn't agree with you more. but besides the price, i don't want to be too wasteful. the knobbies (they are actually hybrids) are perfect, and replacing with slicks would do little on performance for a commuter since there is no rain where I live (when I say that I only care about stopping power performance and safety, since i want the worst performer bike as I want the exercise on the commute). So i just keep them and avoid buying/trashing what i don't really need to.
Jan
6
comment Lighter bike slower than a heavier bike, possible reasons?
If it also felt harder to ride, my guess is seat post height in relation to bottom of pedal travel. For me it have to be really tall, but when i leave it lower for slow travels in busy streets, i get tired twice as fast, and nowhere close to my usual speed... but it is more comfortable to stop and go on each red light.
Jan
6
comment Is this a puncture protection thing?
Thanks. I decided to buy new back tires only, puncture resistant slicks, thinner than what i had before. and will keep to run the old fat knobies with that liner on the front. seems to be a good economical compromise
Jan
6
awarded  Self-Learner
Jan
6
revised Is this a puncture protection thing?
edited tags
Jan
5
answered Is this a puncture protection thing?
Jan
5
revised Is this a puncture protection thing?
removed a side question... not really clever to have two questions... also the answer to that second question is at http://sheldonbrown.com/flats.html#rimtape
Jan
5
asked Is this a puncture protection thing?