13,600 reputation
21853
bio website
location Porto Alegre, Brazil
age 36
visits member for 3 years, 1 month
seen Sep 15 at 16:52

I ride non-stop since I am 4, my father gave me one bike each 4 years until 18. Since then I am changing components and assembling new bikes. Now I have seven, including tandem, home-made recumbent, fixed gear, city-bike with generator and internal-gear-hub, freeride full-suspension.

I have been bred on XC mountainbike (raced a bit), and enjoy technical terrain, as well as light freeride, randonneuring, and touring. I also like to try to smoke my friends and acquaintances on group rides (and so do them).

I tend to do my own assembling and mainteinence, and am known among friends for a natural willingness to solve mechanical problems "in the field", even those not on my bike. I like to read about deep intricacies in bicycle mechanics, being a strong fan of a lot (but not all) of Sheldon Brown approaches.

Recently, I am engaged on bike as transportation, bike advocacy, and political-related-bike-issues, and participate in a lot of local groups, mostly nightbikers, weekend rides (not club rides) and Critical Mass.

My short-term bike-related goal is to have equipment and energy to commute all-year round (my winter is very rainy), and my long term goal, more like a dream, is to be full-time involved with bikes, professionally (most probably designing/manufacturing or selling stuff).


Aug
20
comment New chain is pre-lubricated, should I clean it?
I'd rinse if the ride is wet, because the dirt necessarily got inside the pins. A dry dusty ride does not prompt for cleaning if the chain doesn't sound squeaky IMO. There is an understanding that it's the dirt that causes wear, not lack of lube (which itself would lower drivetrain efficiency due to friction). Sheldon brown has the best article I've ever read about chainwear, it' enligtening.
Aug
19
comment New chain is pre-lubricated, should I clean it?
Well if the chain is ALREADY dirty, I would clean it before putting it on the bike.
Aug
18
comment Does this chainring need to be replaced?
@Kaz you're right, but only if the chainring is symmetrical, which is usually not the case with indexed rings. Even "flat" chainrings usually have a lowered edge in one side of the holes.
Jul
22
comment Rear hub for randonneuring - any “classic” model?
"I would probably not choose American Classic for randonneuring" - could you elaborate on that?
Jul
21
comment Rear hub for randonneuring - any “classic” model?
@DWGKNZ I agree that some boutique parts are a bit overpriced, but Chris Kings are the epytome of "expensive" (if not outright overpriced) to me. I am taking a look at Grand Cru, from Velo Orange, and that looks great AND less expensive... (not that CKs are bad, not at all, but expensive...)
Jul
21
comment Solid rubber bicycle tires
It is worth noting that the very invention of pneumatic tires by Dunlop a long time ago was responsible for a huge development and widespread use of the bicycle as a vehicle.
Jul
8
comment Is it really necessary to physically cross (interlace) the spokes on traditional wheel lacing?
I have tried myself to build a passing wheel, but couldn't because the spokes would leave the flanges at too narrow angles, thus not "wrapping" enough around the flange. I suspect this would make the spokes flex a lot around the elbow, thus braking due to fatigue. Then, it seems to me that supporting them at the middle (via crossing) increases the wrapping AND decreases the flexing at the elbows during use.
Jul
4
comment Schrader tubes in Presta configured Rims?
Here's an interesting hack that is very useful at least to know about: youtube.com/watch?v=cZja_8crIEI
Oct
25
comment How to clean rubber and plastic parts with sticky, thick teflon-based lube stains?
@DanielRHicks Gonna try some silicone spray this weekend and post some feedback, thanks!
Oct
25
comment How to clean rubber and plastic parts with sticky, thick teflon-based lube stains?
The teflon lube, as soon as applied months ago, evaporated and left the characteristic wax-like teflon coating inside the working surface of the shifter. But with use, the edge of the shifter was a bit sticky, since some lube was coming out. When I disassembled and started cleaning, the brushing just spread the wax-like, somewhat dirty teflon over the rubber surface. The rubber itself seems fine, but it's dirty with teflon. It's not impossible, though, that it penetrated the rubber a bit, but I would like to try to clean it with a proper method so that I can know.
Oct
10
comment Tires for 28' city bike (622x19C) to reduce rolling resistance?
I used a pressure that provided enough cushioning without the tire bulging or bottoming out easily. That means the narrower tire had higher pressure. Usually I ride at 20 mph (30km/h) cruising speed.
Sep
23
comment Concerns with different brake types for the front and the rear wheel
@user29020 I refer to tire rubber... My mistake, I'm correcting it, thanks!
Jul
26
comment Am I going to get injured mountain biking if I don't have rear suspension?
@sixtyfootersdude: That's what I said, "your most likely to get seriously injured with a full suspension".
Jul
20
comment Am I going to get injured mountain biking if I don't have rear suspension?
Fun is when you are at 40mph+ down a fire road on an 1.95 tire XC hardtail, and suddenly an eroded rock garden appears around the corner and you think "OMG, I'm dead"... And you manage to float inside it somehow and emerge ALIVE at the other side... Now THAT is fun!
Jul
19
comment Am I going to get injured mountain biking if I don't have rear suspension?
Excellent answer. +1
Jul
19
comment Am I going to get injured mountain biking if I don't have rear suspension?
And no: you're most likely to get seriously injured with a full-suspension that with a hard-tail if your risk-tolerance is high...
Jul
14
comment What defines a “compact” road bike?
@DanielRHicks The mixte frame is an interesting case, since it has the sloped top tube that gives more clearance, while having its seatstays relatively high at the seatclamp, thus not having as much influence on exposed seatpost length and flex. Some say those parallel tubes running from headtube to rear axle are extra weight without that much extra structural strength, but the resulting DESIGN is surely remarkable no matter what!
Jul
14
comment What defines a “compact” road bike?
Having assembled a classic (non-slope) frame of a larger-than-recommended size for me, I'd say a sloped top tube has AT LEAST the (rather understated) benefit of MORE SEATPOST FLEX, thus softening road harshness a lot (I didn't realized I would miss this so much). So, a compact frame might be a good choice not only for racing-performance reasons, but also for long-distance riding at a slower pace...
Jul
11
comment Why do some road bikes cost more than motorbikes? Are they grossly overpriced?
Agreed, and I'd add to it that, beyond a certain level, you need to throw A LOT more money to get not-so-much additional benefit, so the "price vs features" is not linear at all between entry-level and top-level, creating an abyss if you shift these exponential curves to compare a low-end "lo-tech" product with a high-end "hi-tech" one.
Jun
7
comment Advantages and Disadvantages of Bibs vs Shorts?
@NeilFein take a look at this answer, I think it applies to bibs: "wear something skin tight under my upper layers" (bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/13487/2355)