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Nov
6
comment Poor braking after rim change
Pads are old indeed (I believe they are original ones), but they are not spent, and they did brake absolutely fine on original steel rims (I could have locked the wheel with no problem). The only explanation I have is that the pad material is not suitable for aluminium as it is for steel. I'll try changing the pads next.
Nov
6
comment Poor braking after rim change
Can you clarify the following: "Because of the better grip the blocks get on the aluminium rims, it could be the old calipers are not rigid enough for the new job required of them." If the grip is better on aluminium rims than on steel ones, the force needed would be lesser, hence caliper rigidity would be less important, right? BTW, I haven't seen an article which claims superior braking performance of aluminium rims over steel in dry conditions.
Nov
5
awarded  Custodian
Nov
5
reviewed Approve Poor braking after rim change
Nov
5
asked Poor braking after rim change
Oct
23
comment Can a bent hub damage my fork?
Yes, that's an axle.
Oct
23
comment Why have 29-ers arisen only recently?
Not sure what you mean by "road bikes being classified with MTB terminology"? Also, I would call introducing another name for something which already have more than 2 names and consequentially stirring even more confusion anything but "smart". :/
Oct
22
comment Why have 29-ers arisen only recently?
A quote from Sheldon's site: "not actually a new size, it is just a new marketing term for 622 mm (700C) wheels with fat tires".
Oct
22
comment Why have 29-ers arisen only recently?
Is the question about 29" wheels (because 29" are essentially the same as 28" and 700c, and these are around for quite some time) or about 29" bicycles in MTB?
Oct
20
awarded  Yearling
Oct
16
comment Replacing needle bearing threaded headset with an ordinary one
First, thanks for such an elaborate answer, I believe it will be helpful to lot of us. I will do the measurements, but I am pretty sure it's ISO standards, as that's a German bike from 90s. I have already changed headsets (on another bike), but it's the first time I encounter needle bearings. I understand they are (marginally) superior, but I don't think I'd be able to find such headset in my small and not very cycling friendly country. The main concern was whether a stock headset (souch as this one bit.ly/1fD5zxL) would fit.
Oct
16
comment Replacing needle bearing threaded headset with an ordinary one
Yes, threaded. There are couple of washers between the race and the the locknut.
Oct
16
asked Replacing needle bearing threaded headset with an ordinary one
Aug
31
comment Are all ready-made wheels sold “cassette compatible” only?
I think you should localize your question because here where I live it's no problem to find ready made freewheel wheel (actually, I have problems finding cassette wheel for a similar price).
Aug
27
comment How do I determine my wheel size
TL;DR: 700C = 28" = 29" = 622mm. 26" and 27" tires are not compatible with above.
Jul
30
comment Why such a tiny difference in crankarm length?
Not that it affects the question much, but you shouldn't forget that there are two crankarms, so that the actual difference is 2x the difference of a single crankarm - 2cm, not 1cm.
Jul
15
comment How can I make my bike (and myself) visible at night?
Just a minor advice: put your reflective tape on some of the moving parts (rims, spokes or cranks), as the motion improves visibility drastically.
Jul
11
comment Deepening the front fork dropout
@jm2: Well, I am aware that, theoretically speaking, messing with a fork can result in a failure. However, you can't tell that for sure before assessing the particular case, right? As for the symmetry issue, that's valid concern at any case.
Jul
10
asked Deepening the front fork dropout
Jul
9
comment What size cone wrench am I likely to need for a Trek 1.5 2011 Compact rear hub?
Try to find one of these: it has 4 sizes (IIRC, 14, 15, 16 and 17mm) on a single wrench: totalbike.rs/pribor/alati/univerzalni-alat-za-konuse