Timeline for What's this part of the bike, and is it safe to alter it?
Current License: CC BY-SA 3.0
8 events
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| Dec 6, 2015 at 7:33 | history | edited | paparazzo | CC BY-SA 3.0 |
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| Dec 5, 2015 at 4:35 | comment | added | Deleted User | This method would work quite well AND avoid damaging the unit or producing a dodgy headset adjust. However, I would use an actual star nut tool (and not the long bolt) to set the start nut deeper to start. Star nuts are not always easy to hammer in, and there would be a high chance of bending the bolt. | |
| Dec 5, 2015 at 3:31 | history | edited | paparazzo | CC BY-SA 3.0 |
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| Dec 5, 2015 at 0:47 | comment | added | paparazzo | @StephenTouset Tension / compression - feel free to edit the answer. I think people will get what it means. So the steps seem unnecessary to to you. Me I will use a bolt to put tension / compression / or what ever you want to call it rather than (chance) stressing the unit every time. | |
| Dec 5, 2015 at 0:12 | comment | added | Stephen Touset | The bolt that runs through the unit is attached in tension, not compression. The cap and headset bearings will be under compression, not tension. That said, the amount of torque being applied to the bolt is minuscule — probably not even 1Nm. Thus the tension on the bolt and compression on the cap are extremely minor. Once the headset is properly compressed, it is locked in by tightening the pinch bolts, so the unit won't experience forces during riding. The extra steps you suggest seem unnecessary to me. | |
| Dec 5, 2015 at 0:12 | history | edited | paparazzo | CC BY-SA 3.0 |
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| Dec 5, 2015 at 0:00 | history | edited | paparazzo | CC BY-SA 3.0 |
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| Dec 4, 2015 at 23:55 | history | answered | paparazzo | CC BY-SA 3.0 |