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One size does not fit all when it comes to crank lenght, and if you are under 5'9" or are a time trial racer, it is important to go shorter. This can increase muscle activation and firing rate.

Think of muscles as engines, the more of the muscle you can use, the less you damage damage or drain the others. Shorter cranks allow you to change to a broader power range from 90 to 125 watts instead of say 80 to 90 watts with 175 length cranks.

However, watts generated depend not just on crank length but ridability and position. So end of day only real time ABBA type testing, varied skill sets, different events, and time to adapt can tell much. But you have to know why and what happened. A peer reviewed study that doesn't control for this kind of variability won't give viable real-time results.

I've found clearly that short cranks are faster  . The studies, including the one by Jim Martin who I knew, I don't believe are relevant. I don't believe it adequately controlled for all of the variables like the power phase of stroke, how to pedal, and gearing changes? Other factors may be aerodynamics frame geometry, standing and sitting rate, and shifting rate? Every one of these things I studied for 15 years out of interest. I had crank sizes from 150mm to 190mm. I was a pro racer and outputs were high. I performed best with cranks between 150 to 155. I am 5x7".

For maximum efficiency, I suggest you slam your seat back and lower your bars and bicycle if possible. I've tested it on a velodrome and found that your gear ratios need to be .8 inches smaller (one front tooth) smaller for every 1mm shorter crankset to keep the same foot speed.

You need to increase foot speed also, using a significantly small gear allows you switch to a horizontal pedal stroke, never push down. Pushing down cycling is beginner and ridiculous. Pederson really is off on this. You pedal a Nike swoosh down and through horizontally. This is so important for you to grasp, probably the best advice you could ever have, "Nike swoosh" will engage more motors. Its stomping down but right into a clawing back to you with a flat shoe. This makes short cranks come to life, And moving seat back at least 1.5 inches.

Do not lift up the backside with the heel raised. Many newcomers think this faster. and point the heel and toe on the way up. Keep shoe horizontal all the time. Kick up and over and down and through. With shorter cranks, keep a high cadence, put a giant cassette like 13 x 28t on, shift a lot and grab gears and wind it out like a two stroke engine.

The key is far greater gluteal and posterior chain use. Lower position, with your butt back, and shorter cranks are key.

One size does not fit all when it comes to crank length, and if you are under 5'9" or are on a TT bike, it is important to go shorter. This can increase muscle activation and firing rate.

Think of muscles as engines, the more of the muscle you can use, the less you damage or drain the others. Shorter cranks allow you to change to a broader cadence range from 90 to 125 RPM instead of say 80 to 90 RPM with 175mm cranks.

However, watts generated depend not just on crank length but rideability and position. So at the end of the day only real time ABBA type testing, varied skill sets, different events and time to adapt can tell much. But you have to know why and what happened. A peer reviewed study that doesn't take into account all these variables won't give viable real-time results.

I've found clearly that short cranks are faster. I don't believe the studies to be relevant, including the one by Jim Martin who I knew. I don't believe they are adequately controlled for all the variables like the power phase of the stroke, pedalling style and gearing changes. Other factors may be aerodynamics, frame geometry, standing and sitting rate and shifting rate. Everyone of these things I studied for 15 years for personal interest. I had crank sizes from 150mm to 190mm. I was a pro racer and outputs were high. I performed best with cranks between 150 to 155. I am 5x7".

For maximum efficiency I suggest you to slam your seat back and lower your bars and bicycle if possible. I've tested it on a velodrome and found that your gear ratios need to be 0.8 inches smaller (one front tooth) smaller for every 1mm shorter crankset to keep the same foot speed.

You need to increase foot speed also. Using a significantly small gear allows you to switch to a horizontal pedal stroke where you never push down. Pushing down on the pedals is for beginners and it's ridiculous. Pederson really is off on this. You pedal a Nike swoosh down and through horizontally. This is so important for you to grasp, probably the best advice you could ever have, "Nike swoosh" will engage more motors. Its stomping down but right into a clawing back to you with a flat shoe. This makes short cranks come to life, And moving seat back at least 1.5 inches.

Do not lift up the backside with the heel raised. Many newcomers think this faster. And don't point the heel and toe on the way up. Keep shoe horizontal all the time. Kick up and over and down and through. With shorter cranks, keep a high cadence, put a giant cassette like 13 x 28t on, shift a lot and grab gears and wind it out like a two stroke engine.

The key is far greater gluteal and posterior chain use. Lower position, with your butt back, and shorter cranks are key.

[Edit: Put the bit about knee problems back in because this guy really knows what he's talking about] Also shortening cranks isn't the solution to knee problems. A too wide/narrow Q-factor, cold knees (improper clothing), no warm-up before exercise, previous injuries, pushing only down on your pedal stroke, bad shoe and cleat position, sitting too far forward and curved sole shoes with toes pointing down are common causes to knee problems. If you bounce on your saddle at very high rpm this is evidence to poor pedalling technique. Improve by doing high cadence drills.

You guys seem close to getting it. One size does not fit all and if you are under 5foot x9" or are a time trial racer, it is important to go shorter. But so far you don't really seem to have proper guidance on how. Its about muscle activation and firing rate yes.

Imagine 40% more power pulses and a longer duration power pulse for each power stroke. Re,ember Work is what we are talking about.. There are momentum aspects and efficiency aspects that need to be understood and addressed. Took me a while actually because cycling is caught up in this current trend of fancy bicycles and the look, rather than hard smart work. So words like Torque and Horsepower don't cover totally whats happening in the cycling pedal stroke.

Think of muscles as engines, the more you can use, the less you damage the others, or drain. These short cranks allow you to change to a broader power range from 90 to 125 instead of say 80 to 90 with 175s.. Watts tell some but nothing about ridability and position. So end of day only real time ABBA type testing, varied skill sets, different events, and time to adapt can tell much, But you have to know Why and What happened. This Exact problem is why this whole Peer reviewed study and blind leading blind "science" rarely gives viable real time results.

I found clearly short cranks are faster, and the studies, including Jim Martin who i knew, EDS, were not relevant, and are not. No study can say shit about so many variables..what height, what about the watts and the acceleration Work aspect, Dynamic Power? How about the power phase of stroke, what about how to pedal, what about gearing changes? What about aerodynamic possibilities? Can the bicycle be 2 inches lower to the ground? What about the standing and sitting rate, shifting rate? Every one of these things I studied for 15 years out of interest. I had crank sizes from 150mm to 190mm. I was a pro racer and outputs were high. Yet I performed best in 150 to 155. I am 5x7". I could lower handlebars 3 inches and found you only move the seat back. Don't raise it, don't think its Logical, because logic is far more concepts than you and i Were aware of.

Studies and cycling are almost all worthless because the person giving them have no clue of optimization and variables. Also old training and circles changes because of an learned movement. I can't put it all down, but slam your seat back (not scientific but slam it anyway), lower your bars and bicycle if possible. I tested it on a velodrome, all sorts, I was very interested for over 20 years and decided to 15 years back. Gear has to be .8 inches smaller (one front tooth) smaller for every 1mm shorter crankset to keep the same foot speed.

Also shortening cranks isn't the solution to your knee problem. You're doing something wrong, Q-factor, no tights in cold, no warm-up, damaged badly from early years, pushing down only on your stroke (if you bounce at rpm then there is the solid evidence, aka technique. You're looking for a patch. Shoe and cleat position cause issues. Also being to far forward and curved sole shoes with toe pointing cause the problem most often.

You need to increase foot speed also, using a significantly small hesr.masnyou move back you switch to a horizontal pedal stroke, never push down. Pushing down cycling is beginner and ridiculous. Pederson really is off on this. You pedal a Nike swoosh down and through horizontally. This is so important for you to grasp, probably the best advice you could ever have, "Nike swoosh" will engage more motors. Its stomping down but right into a clawing back to you with a flat shoe. This..makes short cranks come to life, And moving seat back at least 1.5 inches.

Do not lift up the backside with the heel raised. Many newcomers think this faster. and point the heel and toe on the way up. Keep shoe horizontal all the time. Kick up and over and down and through. I guarantee 155 is magic if you keep cadence in the 108-125 range and climb above 95 if possible. You didn't need a 12 or 11 tooth cog or a 53 tooth ring. You can go as fast as you want by spinning right past them. 40 percent more power per minute basically, maybe not quite as much, but you get two hits for his 1 basically. Or 3 for his 2.. Put a giant cassette like 13 x 28t on. Shift a lot and grab gears and wind it out like a two stroke. You lug and you're lost.

The key is far greater gluteal and posterior chain use and they often are not used by triathletes especially. Bicycles can be lower and position on top of that. I call it my masters specific position. Short cranks rule, far more stable, a joy to stand and I will never ride 170s again. Feels like a truck after driving a Ferrari f1 at 8000 RPMs and climbing!

There is a lot there if you wade through it, I happen to be a fanatic about that topic, few even considered it until the cocky triathletes got into it. First aerobars and then funny shifting, now going to short cranks, a smart move whose time has not come...why you ask, a long story but I'll tell you..later. For now, its because you have to know how to set them up and how to maximize, most simply are not aware of how to pedal with them. It will open up a can of whoop ass if you do it right... it just happened to interest me. Results later.

One size does not fit all when it comes to crank lenght, and if you are under 5'9" or are a time trial racer, it is important to go shorter. This can increase muscle activation and firing rate.

Imagine 40% more power pulses and a longer duration power pulse for each power stroke and there are momentum aspects and efficiency aspects that need to be understood and addresses and words like torque and horsepower don't cover totally what's happening in the cycling pedal stroke.

Think of muscles as engines, the more of the muscle you can use, the less you damage damage or drain the others. Shorter cranks allow you to change to a broader power range from 90 to 125 watts instead of say 80 to 90 watts with 175 length cranks.

However, watts generated depend not just on crank length but ridability and position. So end of day only real time ABBA type testing, varied skill sets, different events, and time to adapt can tell much. But you have to know why and what happened. A peer reviewed study that doesn't control for this kind of variability won't give viable real-time results.

I've found clearly that short cranks are faster . The studies, including the one by Jim Martin who I knew, I don't believe are relevant. I don't believe it adequately controlled for all of the variables like the power phase of stroke, how to pedal, and gearing changes? Other factors may be aerodynamics frame geometry, standing and sitting rate, and shifting rate? Every one of these things I studied for 15 years out of interest. I had crank sizes from 150mm to 190mm. I was a pro racer and outputs were high. I performed best with cranks between 150 to 155. I am 5x7".

For maximum efficiency, I suggest you slam your seat back and lower your bars and bicycle if possible. I've tested it on a velodrome and found that your gear ratios need to be .8 inches smaller (one front tooth) smaller for every 1mm shorter crankset to keep the same foot speed.

You need to increase foot speed also, using a significantly small gear allows you switch to a horizontal pedal stroke, never push down. Pushing down cycling is beginner and ridiculous. Pederson really is off on this. You pedal a Nike swoosh down and through horizontally. This is so important for you to grasp, probably the best advice you could ever have, "Nike swoosh" will engage more motors. Its stomping down but right into a clawing back to you with a flat shoe. This makes short cranks come to life, And moving seat back at least 1.5 inches.

Do not lift up the backside with the heel raised. Many newcomers think this faster. and point the heel and toe on the way up. Keep shoe horizontal all the time. Kick up and over and down and through. With shorter cranks, keep a high cadence, put a giant cassette like 13 x 28t on, shift a lot and grab gears and wind it out like a two stroke engine.

The key is far greater gluteal and posterior chain use. Lower position, with your butt back, and shorter cranks are key.

You guys seem close to getting it. One size does not fit all and if you are under 5foot x9" or are a time trial racer, it is important to go shorter. But so far you dont really seem to have proper guidance on how. Its about muscle activaton and firing rate yes. Imagine 40% more power pulses and a longer duration power pulse for each power stroke. Re,ember Work is what we are talking about.. There are momentum aspects and efficency aspects that need to be understood and addressed. Took me a while actually because cycling is caught up in this current trend of fancy bicycles and the look, rather thsn hard smart work. So words like Torque and Horsepower dont cover totally whats happening in the cycling pedal stroke. Think of muscles as engines, the more you can use, the less you damage the others, or drain. These short cranks allow you to change to a broader power range from 90 to 125 insteadof say 80 to 90 with 175s.. Watts tell some but nothing about ridability and position. So end of day only resl time ABBA type testing, varied skill sets, different events, amd time to adapt can tell much, But you have to know Why and What happened. This Exact problem is why this whole Peer reviewed study and blind leading blind "science" rarely gives viable real time results. I found clearly short cranks are faster, and the studies, including Jim Martin who i knew, EDS, were not relevant, and are not. No study can say shit about so many variables..what height, what about the watts and the accelleration Work aspect, Dynamic Power? How about the power phase of stroke, what about how to pedal, what about gearing changes? What about aerodynamic possibilities? Can the bicycle be 2 inches lower to the ground? What about the standing and sitting rate, shifting rate? Every one of these things i studied for 15 years. I did it out of interest. I had sizes fromn150 to 190. I was a pro racer and outputs were high. Yet I performed best in 150 to 155. I am 5x7".i could lower handlebars 3 inches and i found you only move the seat back. Dont raise it, dont think its Logical, because logic is far more concepts than you and i Were aware of. Studies and cycling are almost all worthlesss because the personsngivjng them have no clue of optimization and variables. Also old trainingnandncircles changes because of an learned movement. I cant put it all down, but slam your seat back (not scientific but slam it anyway), lower your bars and bicycle if possible. I tested it on a velodrome, all sorts, i was very interested for over 20myears andndecided to 15myears back. Gear has to be .8 inches smaller (one front tooth) smaller for every 1mm shorterper cranksetr to keep the same foot speed. also shortening cranks isnt the solution to your knee proble,. Your doing something wrong, qnfactor, no tights in cold, no warmup, damaged badly from early years, pushing down only on your stroke (if you bounce at rpm then there is the solid evidence. .aka technique. Your loking for a patch. Shoe amd cleat position cause issues. Also being too farmforward amd curved sole shoes with toe pointing cause the problem most often. more later if any are highly interested. Zac you need to increase foot speed also, using a significantly small hesr.masnyou move back you switch to a horizontal pedal stroke, never push down. Pushing down cycling is beginner and ridicilous. Pederson realy is off on this. You pedal a Nike swoosh down and thru horizontally. This is so imortant for you to grasp, probably the best advice you could ever have, nike swoosh will engage more motors. Its stomping down but right into a clawwing back to you with a Flat shoe. This..makesmshort cranks come to life, And moving sest back at lleast 1.5 inches. do not lift the bup the backside with the heel raised. Many newcomers think this faster. and point the heel and toe on the way up. Keep shoe horizontsl all the time. Kick up and [voer and down and thru. I guarantee 155 is magic if you keep rpms in the 108-125 range and climb above 95 if possible. You diont need a 12 or 11tooth cog or a 53 tooth ring. You can go as fast as you want by spinning rightnpast them. 40 percent more power per minute basically, maybe not quitenas much, butnyou get two hits for his 1 basically. Or 3 for his 2.. Put a giant casette like 13 x 28t on. Shift a lot and grab gears and windnit out like a two stroke. You lug and your lost. The key is far greater gluteual and posterior chain use and they often are not used by triathletes especially. Bicycles can be lower and position on top of that. I call it my masters specific position.short cranks rule, far more stable, a joy to stand and i will never ride 170s again. Feels like a truck after driving a ferrari f1 at 8000 rpms amd climbing! There is a lot there if you wade thru it, i happen to be a fanatic about that topic, few even consodered it until the cooky triathletes got into it. First aerobars and then funny shifting, now going to short cranks, a smart move whos time has not come...why you ask, a long story but ill tell you..later. for now, its because you have to know how to set them up andnhow to maximize, most simply are not aware of how to pedal with them. It will open up a can of whoop ass if you do it right...it just happened to interest me. Results later. Zac

You guys seem close to getting it. One size does not fit all and if you are under 5foot x9" or are a time trial racer, it is important to go shorter. But so far you don't really seem to have proper guidance on how. Its about muscle activation and firing rate yes.

Imagine 40% more power pulses and a longer duration power pulse for each power stroke. Re,ember Work is what we are talking about.. There are momentum aspects and efficiency aspects that need to be understood and addressed. Took me a while actually because cycling is caught up in this current trend of fancy bicycles and the look, rather than hard smart work. So words like Torque and Horsepower don't cover totally whats happening in the cycling pedal stroke. 

Think of muscles as engines, the more you can use, the less you damage the others, or drain. These short cranks allow you to change to a broader power range from 90 to 125 instead of say 80 to 90 with 175s.. Watts tell some but nothing about ridability and position. So end of day only real time ABBA type testing, varied skill sets, different events, and time to adapt can tell much, But you have to know Why and What happened. This Exact problem is why this whole Peer reviewed study and blind leading blind "science" rarely gives viable real time results.

I found clearly short cranks are faster, and the studies, including Jim Martin who i knew, EDS, were not relevant, and are not. No study can say shit about so many variables..what height, what about the watts and the acceleration Work aspect, Dynamic Power? How about the power phase of stroke, what about how to pedal, what about gearing changes? What about aerodynamic possibilities? Can the bicycle be 2 inches lower to the ground? What about the standing and sitting rate, shifting rate? Every one of these things I studied for 15 years out of interest. I had crank sizes from 150mm to 190mm. I was a pro racer and outputs were high. Yet I performed best in 150 to 155. I am 5x7". I could lower handlebars 3 inches and found you only move the seat back. Don't raise it, don't think its Logical, because logic is far more concepts than you and i Were aware of.

Studies and cycling are almost all worthless because the person giving them have no clue of optimization and variables. Also old training and circles changes because of an learned movement. I can't put it all down, but slam your seat back (not scientific but slam it anyway), lower your bars and bicycle if possible. I tested it on a velodrome, all sorts, I was very interested for over 20 years and decided to 15 years back. Gear has to be .8 inches smaller (one front tooth) smaller for every 1mm shorter crankset to keep the same foot speed.

Also shortening cranks isn't the solution to your knee problem. You're doing something wrong, Q-factor, no tights in cold, no warm-up, damaged badly from early years, pushing down only on your stroke (if you bounce at rpm then there is the solid evidence, aka technique. You're looking for a patch. Shoe and cleat position cause issues. Also being to far forward and curved sole shoes with toe pointing cause the problem most often.

You need to increase foot speed also, using a significantly small hesr.masnyou move back you switch to a horizontal pedal stroke, never push down. Pushing down cycling is beginner and ridiculous. Pederson really is off on this. You pedal a Nike swoosh down and through horizontally. This is so important for you to grasp, probably the best advice you could ever have, "Nike swoosh" will engage more motors. Its stomping down but right into a clawing back to you with a flat shoe. This..makes short cranks come to life, And moving seat back at least 1.5 inches.

Do not lift up the backside with the heel raised. Many newcomers think this faster. and point the heel and toe on the way up. Keep shoe horizontal all the time. Kick up and over and down and through. I guarantee 155 is magic if you keep cadence in the 108-125 range and climb above 95 if possible. You didn't need a 12 or 11 tooth cog or a 53 tooth ring. You can go as fast as you want by spinning right past them. 40 percent more power per minute basically, maybe not quite as much, but you get two hits for his 1 basically. Or 3 for his 2.. Put a giant cassette like 13 x 28t on. Shift a lot and grab gears and wind it out like a two stroke. You lug and you're lost.

The key is far greater gluteal and posterior chain use and they often are not used by triathletes especially. Bicycles can be lower and position on top of that. I call it my masters specific position. Short cranks rule, far more stable, a joy to stand and I will never ride 170s again. Feels like a truck after driving a Ferrari f1 at 8000 RPMs and climbing!

There is a lot there if you wade through it, I happen to be a fanatic about that topic, few even considered it until the cocky triathletes got into it. First aerobars and then funny shifting, now going to short cranks, a smart move whose time has not come...why you ask, a long story but I'll tell you..later. For now, its because you have to know how to set them up and how to maximize, most simply are not aware of how to pedal with them. It will open up a can of whoop ass if you do it right... it just happened to interest me. Results later.