Timeline for Bike chain "skipping", but only when not continuously pedaling
Current License: CC BY-SA 4.0
17 events
| when toggle format | what | by | license | comment | |
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| Oct 13, 2023 at 19:36 | history | edited | Ted Hohl | CC BY-SA 4.0 |
changed "coop" to co-op. removed a couple extraneous words.
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| Oct 13, 2023 at 18:47 | answer | added | Retroroclit | timeline score: 1 | |
| Apr 9, 2017 at 4:46 | vote | accept | Jon | ||
| Apr 9, 2017 at 4:46 | answer | added | Jon | timeline score: 8 | |
| Apr 7, 2017 at 13:17 | comment | added | Jon | I think @MikeBaranczak hit the nail on the head on this one. My roommate is actually a bike mechanic and took a look at it, and he said the freewheel body is probably the problem. I'm gonna remove it and either clean or replace it this weekend. Will report back. Thanks everyone! | |
| Apr 6, 2017 at 19:44 | comment | added | Mike Baranczak | Also, if you have a chain whip tool: remove the rear wheel, put the chain whip on the cogs, and try turning them back and forth with the tool. If you can make it skip that way, then it's definitely the freewheel. (Watch your knuckles!) | |
| Apr 6, 2017 at 19:37 | comment | added | Mike Baranczak | Try to replicate the problem when the bike is on a stand. Turn the pedals forward, then stop and turn them back by a few degrees, then turn forward again. Maybe tie the wheel down so it doesn't move when you put force on the pedals. When you're not on the bike, it might be easier to see what's happening. | |
| Apr 6, 2017 at 19:34 | comment | added | Mike Baranczak | A worn chain or sprockets would be my first guess, but you say you've eliminated that possibility. I would take another look at the freewheel. | |
| Apr 6, 2017 at 17:23 | history | tweeted | twitter.com/StackBicycles/status/850036360199237632 | ||
| Apr 6, 2017 at 7:22 | answer | added | Orb | timeline score: 1 | |
| Apr 6, 2017 at 5:29 | comment | added | Jon | I'll definitely look into that. Did some more experimentation. When I put the bike in a stand and manually roll the top jockey wheel on the rear derailleur toward the back of the bike (to move the chain in the direction it moves to power the bike forward) it doesn’t catch the chain reliably. Am I correct in thinking that could be the issue? | |
| Apr 6, 2017 at 4:59 | comment | added | mattnz | Possibly a bent derailleur hanger. | |
| Apr 6, 2017 at 3:07 | comment | added | Jon | From what I can tell, it happens on pretty much any gear I've tried. I just went through the rear derailleur adjustment process, and I actually removed one link from my chain as well, and I'm still having this issue. It's actually worse now. But both rear and front derailleurs are shifting just fine. Could a derailleur that's shifting well still cause this problem? | |
| Apr 6, 2017 at 2:54 | comment | added | Daniel R Hicks | Also, you should make note of which gears exhibit this problem. Likely it's more common when the chain is fairly slack. (It may be that your chain is a hair too long, among other things, or the rear derailer does not have enough "tooth capacity" for your drive train.) | |
| Apr 6, 2017 at 2:51 | comment | added | Daniel R Hicks | What's happening, at the most basic level, is that the chain is going slack and when that happens some sort of maladjustment/mismatch in the drive train causes the chain to get slightly off one of the sprockets (most likely the front). In the case of a well-used drive train one might suspect worn sprockets or chain would be at fault, but if they are all new then that's not it. So probably you should simply go through the adjustment process again -- it's normal for it to be needed after a "break-in" period on a new bike. My guess is that the front derailer is out of adjustment. | |
| Apr 6, 2017 at 2:36 | review | First posts | |||
| Apr 6, 2017 at 16:59 | |||||
| Apr 6, 2017 at 2:32 | history | asked | Jon | CC BY-SA 3.0 |