Timeline for Jammed lock (shackle stuck in crossbar)
Current License: CC BY-SA 3.0
7 events
| when toggle format | what | by | license | comment | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Dec 14, 2017 at 19:22 | comment | added | Criggie♦ | @MrBobinski you might benefit from cutting a short section of innertube, of a close-fitting size, and pulling it over the lock as a cover. | |
| Dec 14, 2017 at 15:13 | comment | added | Mr Bobinski | Pouring warm water over the joints worked to free the crossbar. The lock is drying out in a sunny window at my workplace right now. I will report back on whether White Lithium prevents this from happening in the future. The keyhole is on the crossbar, facing away from the curve of the D. So putting the curve down exposes the keyhole. But there is a keyhole cover, so maybe this will work. Will report back. | |
| Dec 14, 2017 at 15:10 | vote | accept | Mr Bobinski | ||
| Dec 14, 2017 at 9:19 | comment | added | Chris H | Over or in front of a heater might be good too, depending on your heating. The lowest setting on an oven or even the air from some heaters may be too warm for a plastic coating (they're often vinyl which softens at quite low temperatures). Grease on the places where the two halves come together might also be a good idea once it's dry | |
| Dec 14, 2017 at 9:16 | comment | added | Chris H | @Paparazzi you're right on the Kryptonite and Masterlock locks I have, which have the keyhole oppostie the holes for the cruved part. For a D-lock with the keyhole in the end of the crossbar this advice about keeping ti dry could work. | |
| Dec 14, 2017 at 9:11 | comment | added | paparazzo | Keyhole and D loop down is not how the lock is arranged. That would be a silly design as locking would block access to key hole. | |
| Dec 14, 2017 at 0:56 | history | answered | Criggie♦ | CC BY-SA 3.0 |