Timeline for Toothed plastic cup on bottom bracket got sheared off - still removable?
Current License: CC BY-SA 4.0
7 events
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Oct 16, 2018 at 17:08 | comment | added | ichabod | I like mattnz's suggestion of using a couple of holes for a pin spanner. If it doesn't work, you've only added a couple of holes and can try other things. Another thought to keep in mind is to be sure which way you need to turn the cup for removal. It runs in my mind that the cup on the left side is left-threaded, but it's been so long since I removed one that I'm not sure. You don't want to accidentally tighten it. | |
Oct 16, 2018 at 12:05 | comment | added | Argenti Apparatus | @SteffenWinkler correct. You want to be careful though, the plastic between the shell and cartridge is likely thinner than the flange with the teeth on it. | |
Oct 16, 2018 at 7:22 | comment | added | Steffen Winkler | just for confirmation - as I'm unsure about the vocabulary here - 'BB Shell' refers to the metal part of the bike's frame where the bottom bracket is in, right? From your edits to my question the plastic cub is what I previously described as 'plastic toothed rim' - so I would drill right into those 'teeths'? | |
Oct 16, 2018 at 3:54 | comment | added | mattnz | I would be tempted to drill holes for a pin spanner, then clamp it onto the shell using washers / spacers maybe the right sized socket with an M8 bolt into the spindle. With the pin spanner held in place you may be able to us some percussion to get the shell moving. | |
Oct 15, 2018 at 23:43 | history | edited | Argenti Apparatus | CC BY-SA 4.0 |
added 12 characters in body
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Oct 15, 2018 at 23:42 | comment | added | Rider_X | Rather than try and chisel (and damage the BB shell threads) you could use the drilled holes as entry points to gain leverage to try unthread plastic cups. Needle nose pliers could work, but something like the SPA-1 Pin Spanner would work better. | |
Oct 15, 2018 at 21:14 | history | answered | Argenti Apparatus | CC BY-SA 4.0 |