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Swifty
Swifty
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That's not normal, the left/right play of the spindle needs to be removed. This is known as adding 'preload' to the bearings, so they are sandwiched between the cranks with a 'Goldilocks' force.

Look up the manual online for your specific (Rotor) crankset and you can follow their instructions so as to not miss anything out. Alternatively, if the shop did this installation recently, they will not object to sorting this issue if you take it to them to rectify.

In your video, there is the frame, and the left crank. In between the two is a knurled collar, see What is this crank part called?, which is there to take up the gap. It will have a tiny grub screw with a hex key fitting to fix its position. If this is not loosened already, it is loosened and then the collar is tightened until the point where there is no play anymore, and not any further - Goldilocks. Then tighten the grub screw to hold the position. The cranks should then turn freely with no play.

This is all done after the crank bolt is done up tight, so no need to remove the cranks, just make sure the crank bolt is (still) tight, if you want to (do this first).

Look up the manual online for your specific (Rotor) crankset and you can follow their instructions so as to not miss anything out. Alternatively, if the shop did this installation recently, they will not object to sorting this issue if you take it to them to rectify.Rotor have a video which seems quite clear:

 

That's not normal, the left/right play of the spindle needs to be removed. This is known as adding 'preload' to the bearings, so they are sandwiched between the cranks with a 'Goldilocks' force.

In your video, there is the frame, and the left crank. In between the two is a knurled collar, see What is this crank part called?, which is there to take up the gap. It will have a tiny grub screw with a hex key fitting to fix its position. If this is not loosened already, it is loosened and then the collar is tightened until the point where there is no play anymore, and not any further - Goldilocks. Then tighten the grub screw to hold the position. The cranks should then turn freely with no play.

This is all done after the crank bolt is done up tight, so no need to remove the cranks, just make sure the crank bolt is (still) tight, if you want to (do this first).

Look up the manual online for your specific (Rotor) crankset and you can follow their instructions so as to not miss anything out. Alternatively, if the shop did this installation recently, they will not object to sorting this issue if you take it to them to rectify.

That's not normal, the left/right play of the spindle needs to be removed. This is known as adding 'preload' to the bearings, so they are sandwiched between the cranks with a 'Goldilocks' force.

Look up the manual online for your specific (Rotor) crankset and you can follow their instructions so as to not miss anything out. Alternatively, if the shop did this installation recently, they will not object to sorting this issue if you take it to them to rectify.

In your video, there is the frame, and the left crank. In between the two is a knurled collar, see What is this crank part called?, which is there to take up the gap. It will have a tiny grub screw with a hex key fitting to fix its position. If this is not loosened already, it is loosened and then the collar is tightened until the point where there is no play anymore, and not any further - Goldilocks. Then tighten the grub screw to hold the position. The cranks should then turn freely with no play.

This is all done after the crank bolt is done up tight, so no need to remove the cranks, just make sure the crank bolt is (still) tight, if you want to (do this first).

Rotor have a video which seems quite clear:

 

Source Link
Swifty
Swifty
  • 13k
  • 3
  • 35
  • 74

That's not normal, the left/right play of the spindle needs to be removed. This is known as adding 'preload' to the bearings, so they are sandwiched between the cranks with a 'Goldilocks' force.

In your video, there is the frame, and the left crank. In between the two is a knurled collar, see What is this crank part called?, which is there to take up the gap. It will have a tiny grub screw with a hex key fitting to fix its position. If this is not loosened already, it is loosened and then the collar is tightened until the point where there is no play anymore, and not any further - Goldilocks. Then tighten the grub screw to hold the position. The cranks should then turn freely with no play.

This is all done after the crank bolt is done up tight, so no need to remove the cranks, just make sure the crank bolt is (still) tight, if you want to (do this first).

Look up the manual online for your specific (Rotor) crankset and you can follow their instructions so as to not miss anything out. Alternatively, if the shop did this installation recently, they will not object to sorting this issue if you take it to them to rectify.