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I've just put new 32mm Continental GP5000's on my road bike. I ride mostly on tarmac but there is the occasional gravel or dirt trail, I've previously used the Bontrager R1's the bike was sold on on these trails with no issues.

With the GP5000's I've so far done two longer (100km+/60mi+) rides and got a flat in the rear wheel each time, both times on gravel tracks. As far as I can tell what happened was that a rock cut through the tire and tube, that started slowly letting air out, and after the pressure went low enough I then got a pinch flat on another rock.

First time I had 5bar/70psi in the tires. For the second ride, because I initially thought it was just a pinch flat, I went to the max pressure of 7bar/100psi.

Here's one of the cuts I've found on the rear tire with ~200mi/300km on the tires right now. I suspect this was caused by those gravel trails.

enter image description here

The trails I got those flats on had this kind of gravel on them:

enter image description here

To me it looks like either:

  • the GP5000's are meant for the road only and gravel trails are off limits, so I need different tires
  • I'm running them at too high pressures - should I try 3-4bar/40-60psi the next time?

The full weight of me + the bike + my pannier bags on these trips is approx. 95-100kg/210-220lbs.


conclusion from answers and comments:

The GP5k's are not the correct choice for the kind of rides I do and that's the main reason for my issues.

My tire pressure should be more in the 3.5-5.0bar/50-70psi range based on the Silca calculator, so I was running it too high on the second ride for sure, and at the upper end of the range on the first ride, but I don't expect that would've been the main reason for my flats (especially since the second flat I got was actually a regular pinch flat even at 7bar/100psi).

I'll ride the 5k's in the city and look at getting 5k AS TR or maybe Gravelking Slicks for those rides involving some offroading.

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    I have ridden the Conti GP 4 seasons tyre on some fairly long stretches of gravel with no problems whatsoever, however this year I've switched to the GP5000s and they are a different matter entirely - I wouldn't even attempt a short section of gravel with these
    – John M
    Commented Sep 9 at 13:44
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    The GP 4 seasons is another example of an endurance road tire as discussed in my post. The AS TR is a higher end version of that.
    – Weiwen Ng
    Commented Sep 9 at 23:32
  • @JohnM GP5000s are updated GP4000s - they're Continental's road racing clincher tire. Commented Sep 10 at 19:21
  • @AndrewHenle yep, aware of that - I decided that I would rather have the extra speed over durability, as I now have a gravel bike for the rough stuff...
    – John M
    Commented Sep 11 at 8:31
  • Thanks for the additional info on updates. One thing I tend to fail to consider, being somewhat on the lighter end, is rider weight. Larger and more powerful riders will tend to stress tires more.
    – Weiwen Ng
    Commented Sep 12 at 23:58

3 Answers 3

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If your gravel is mostly as shown in the photo, then the first mistake was riding GP 5ks and the second mistake was riding them at 100 PSI. I couldn't resist being glib, but we shall subsequently drop that.

High-performance tires vs. endurance or all-season tires

The Bontrager R1 is described as having "Hard-Case Lite puncture protection", and it's described as a reliable entry-level tire suitable for road bikes or urban commuters. The GP5000 also has a puncture protection strip under the tread. In both cases, it's probably made of something like kevlar. Otherwise, the GP5000 is a performance road tire, and it's likely to be less sturdy in construction than the R1.

In my experience, the GP5000 is perfectly fine on dirt roads without that much gravel. However, I am about 145 lbs. Heavier riders encountering a lot of sections of the pictured gravel, which is very chunky, are likely to have a worse experience. This could have contributed to the flats. The previous response didn't consider rider weight. Cyclists come in many shapes and sizes.

If you browse tire manufacturers' offerings, you should be able to see a performance road tire, a first- or second-tier endurance road tire with a tougher construction, and a time trial tire. For Continental, those are the GP 5000 S TR, the All Season (AS) TR, and then the TT TR plus the new aero tire. The AS TR is an equivalent level of technology to the S TR, but I don't think everyone does this. The Vittoria Corsa NEXT is another example. There's no industry standard term, but I'm calling this the endurance road tire.

At a given level of technology, you can optimize the tread compound for a combination of rolling resistance, grip, and durability. The high-performance all-round tires (e.g. the 5000 S TR) are going to lean more towards rolling resistance and grip. The endurance road tires like the AS TR are likely to downplay rolling resistance for durability and grip.

If you are doing a lot of off-road excursions, the AS TR is a better choice. It's a couple watts higher rolling resistance per tire at high speed. However, it's overall a sturdier construction (which increases hysteresis losses while the tire is rolling, therefore increasing rolling resistance). That isn't to say that the S TR cannot be used on dirt roads. It certainly can, it's just not ideal.

In addition, you might consider going tubeless if you bought the tubeless versions of those tires. With a 32mm tire, it's likely that you will see at least some benefit from the sealant, although my intuition is that if you run very high pressures, that may be diminished.

Some companies have a durable tire, like the Continental Gatorskin and the Pirelli Cinturato Velo. The Gatorskin definitely has very high rolling resistance and may be uncomfortable to ride. I feel like that's not necessary for this application.

Pressure - Even 70 PSI is almost certainly too muchg

Try the Silca tire pressure calculator here. For 32mm measured width on chunky-ish gravel, it suggests 47 PSI front/48.5 rear. I don't know if excess pressure contributed to flats, but it definitely can't be comfortable and is actually slower. For that matter, the Silca calculator is calibrated to minimize rolling resistance, and it is biased high relative to some other calculators. For 28mm road tires, I run 5-10 PSI less than my suggested pressure.

Also note that you can click the surface guide link in that calculator for examples of what they consider each surface type, as pressure recommendations vary a bit by surface. Here's the direct link. I assumed category 3 gravel. For category 2, which is a hard packed dirt road with a bit of gravel, it's suggesting 53/54.5 PSI. For new pavement it's suggesting in the mid 60s. It's suggesting over 70 PSI for tracks, although a road bike with 32mm tires would be a bit of an unusual choice for track cycling.

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    It's my intuition (not knowledge) that over-inflated tires are more prone to punctures and tears since they push harder into the objects instead of deforming around them. One imperfect demonstration of this is how much easier it is to insert a tire plug into a partially inflated tires compared to a completely flat tire.
    – Paul H
    Commented Sep 9 at 16:51
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    @PaulH It's an interesting thought experiment. I could imagine that overinflated tires might be more prone to tears due to the higher casing tension (and hence less additional force is needed to reach the breaking strength of the casing material), but your reasoning seems reasonable as well.
    – MaplePanda
    Commented Sep 11 at 15:30
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Road tyre suffer in gravel like nowhere else. You need to ride very carefully there.

You are fighting two-headed dragon there too.

If you set the tyre pressure too high the cuts from sharp pieces cuts it easier and deeper. If you set the tyre pressure too low you risk punctures caused by tube or even the tyre cutting from the rim hitting the rock.

I'm riding Specialized Allez with Specialized Roubaix tyres inflated to the max and I'm having fewer punctures than riding lower pressure. And I use it more like a gravel bike than road bike. I killed the OEM tyres within two years - they were cut the same way as yours.

So If you cannot avoid gravel stages, slow down, ride easily and avoid sharp rocks. If you can fit gravel tyres in the forks/brakes and expect significant ammount of gravel stages, change the tyres to gravel ones.

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    If I hit surprise-gravel while on the road bike, I'll evaluate my options and sometimes end up riding along the grass shoulder, or reverse course and go around the long way. If I push through, I'm riding gently, with bent legs and most of my weight on the pedals for "suspension" allowing the bike to move up and down easier on each stone.
    – Criggie
    Commented Sep 9 at 10:54
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The trails I got those flats on had this kind of gravel on them:

This is exactly the type of gravel I'd avoid when riding road bike tires.

However, I suspect the most likely failure cause would be, not directly on the tread, but on the sidewall. Such a failure might require you to use an emergency tire boot in addition to patching the tube (or using a spare tube), which means buying a new tire once you get home, since a tire boot is not a permanent repair.

But since you had a flat on the tread, apparently that can happen too. Consider yourself lucky, this type of gravel consisting of large rocks can not only destroy a tube but also destroy a tire.

And as you correctly noticed, riding directly over large gravel rocks can cause pinch flats. That has happened to me when a construction zone had left those large gravel rocks on a paved road, and I rode directly over one rock. No low pressure there, the pressure on my tire was entirely normal.

That kind of gravel consisting of large sharp rocks can only be ridden on tires that have thick layer of rubber all around them, including on the sidewall.

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