Interrupter brakes require the brake cable to angle away from the bar to meet the lever at the proper point as shown in the picture below. You can see the handlebar tape doesn't carry on closer to the center because if it did, and was wrapped tight, it would put a harsh bend in the cable. But it seems the right tiny bit of molded plastic to guide the cable off the bar right into the interrupters at the correct angle (shown in red on the left) would allow you to wrap the tape nice and tight right up to where the interrupter levers clamp on the bar.

Is there such a cable guide wedge thing? If not, has anyone made their own? It would be nice to bring the handlebar tape nicely finished right up against the interrupter clamp.

enter image description here

  • 1
    I've noticed and been annoyed by that too! I think my Tektro levers have a bit less of a gap, though.
    – WTHarper
    May 4, 2014 at 13:53
  • 2
    If you know someone with a woodshop, it would be possible to easily fashion something out of wood. Would also be an easy task for a 3D printer.
    – Kibbee
    May 4, 2014 at 16:59
  • 3
    Or a lump of Sugru, or epoxy putty, or modelling clay, or some sort of thermoplastic material.
    – vclaw
    May 4, 2014 at 20:43
  • @WTHarper I can see in that pic there are shims between the brakes and bar. Without the shims the gap would be smaller.
    – obelia
    May 4, 2014 at 23:48
  • using google image search it seems that most people just wrap over the cables without any problems - the wedge isn't necessary. In your case I'd be tempted to wrap under the cable since the shims add to the gap.
    – Móż
    May 4, 2014 at 23:51

2 Answers 2


When I wrenched for a cross team we just taped over the housing. We also would position the levers further out (unless you're running narrow bars.) Keep in mind there's no need to pull the tape so tight that it would bend the cable housing. You want to pull the tape just snug enough so it doesn't slip. If you get to the end of the bar and let go of the tape it shouldn't unravel. If it does you likely pulled it too tight. Also no need to use so much electrical tape at the end. If you want a really clean look cut end of the tape at a 45 degree angle so it lies flat when you finish wrapping and hold it in place with a dot of superglue.

  • Does the 45 degree cut bevel the edge of the bar tape? Then apply the super glue all along the cut edge? That sounds really slick!
    – dlu
    Jul 15, 2015 at 20:15
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    If you look down at the tap it's cut 45-60 degrees across the width. When you're wrapping a bar your basically wrapping it at an angle so the tape will keep moving along the bar. When get to the end you want it to end even so that's where the taper cut comes in. The tape should come up under the bar, over the top away from you and sort of blend in smoothly. If you just cut the tape straight across then your last wrap is straight and results in a bulge at the end of the tape.
    – ChrisL
    Jul 15, 2015 at 21:08
  • Thank you, I think I get it now. That is totally different from what I was envisioning. I was thinking something like the scarf joint you would use to join two pieces of wood end to end.
    – dlu
    Jul 15, 2015 at 22:26
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    Nope, fortunately it's easier than trying to do a scarf joint on thin material. If you look at the bar tape it does sort of form a continual scarf joint. Most padded tape has sort of a bump profile to it. If you overlap it just right while wrapping you'll have a fairly flat smooth surface instead of a bumpy surface.
    – ChrisL
    Jul 15, 2015 at 23:38
  • Cool, coincidently, I've got a set of bars I was just getting ready to work on. Now I know what I'm going to do. Thanks also for the tip about the tape not unraveling if it isn't too tight. That's useful.
    – dlu
    Jul 15, 2015 at 23:49

The thing'a'ma'bobber we're discussing would solve the problem that the Park article alludes to. I used to make fairings for depth sounders on boats by mounting the sounder and then taping neatly around where the sounder didn't meet the hull and forcing in epoxy goop (technical term there).

I think you could do something very similar by wrapping the cable firmly, but not so firmly that it would distort the cable, with tape. Leave a small hole into which you can squirt some RTV caulk (here's one example from Permatex, but there are many others). Let it cure then you can do the final taping. It may try and stick to the bars and cable, but that's a good thing. It will peel off when the time comes.

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