I had to rebuilt the rear Joytech hub on my 2008(ish) Schwinn High Timber after I broke the axle:

New axle vs old

My hubs have a integrated dust cover which consists of a rubber diaphragm that is pressed into the end of the hub and has a opening for the cone:

Integrated dust cover

The cones on the new axle have dust covers on them (the old ones did not), but the opening on the hub is larger than most I presume:

Pressed dust cover with integrated dust cover

At first I was going to remove the pressed on one from the cone. I figured if I left them both on there then the rotating integrated one would be sliced apart from the sharp edge of the one on the cone. So what should I do in this case, or remove the one pressed on the cone? A quick look at the hubs on JoyTech's website suggest that all the ones with the rubber diaphragm do not use the metal ones on the cones. Considering this, I'm leaning to removing the ones on the cones.

I just happen to have a new stock spare wheel for this bike that I'm going to use in the mean time. Here is the photo of it as a reference:

new stock wheel

  • If the cone is the correct diameter to mate with the hub's dust cover then you can probably get away with removing the cone's cover. There is a danger, however, that the cone is simply the wrong one to use with that hub, due to a different bearing circle diameter. Aug 11, 2014 at 15:09
  • @DanielRHicks, I believe that the cones are the same size eyeballing it, unless they come in X mm, X+1 mm, X+2 mm, etc. I added the photo comparing the axles. After I assembled the wheel and got it all adjusted, everything felt good. I just had both covers on it. Don't worry about the spacers in that photo, I was working on getting the centering worked out.
    – BPugh
    Aug 11, 2014 at 15:21
  • Note that you should be able to reuse the old cones, unless they were damaged when the axle broke. (And also note that there is some danger that the hub was bent or the races were scored when the axle broke.) Aug 11, 2014 at 15:26
  • @DanielRHicks, the cone on the broken side did have a 3mm pit in it (not pictured above) while the other (in the photo) looked fine all the way around. Hub checked out as well. The axle broke right at the end of the cone. The symptoms have been showing up for a few days, but stopped riding it when it broke.
    – BPugh
    Aug 11, 2014 at 15:43
  • This sounds somewhat similar to the problem I had last year, where the front hub started making swish-swish sounds. Replaced bearings, cone, and axle, and it began doing it again within an hour's ride. The original axle showed signs of stress (distorted threads), apparently due to the cone and lock nut being tightened against each other by the motion of the wheel and a dragging bearing. Finally had to get a new wheel. (IOW, keep an eye on the hub after you put it back together.) Aug 11, 2014 at 15:56

1 Answer 1


I went with the original integrated covers on my hubs without the pressed on caps on the cones. To remove the caps from the cones I just used a sock to sit on the dust cap and give it a good whack with a hammer and it came right off. If my new cones ever do come with a large enough cover then I would probably go with that.

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