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Hey I am about to buy a used bicycle and recently I got offer for Peugeot bicycle. We both do not know the price to agree on...

The question is how to evaluate price of an used bicycle? (where to put the most focus)

The bike:

  • Age: around 10 years Gears (front and back): Shimano 105 (seems all fine)
  • Frame: used but still in very good shape
  • Brand: Peugeot
  • Pic: enter image description here

I guess no more info.

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    Yeah, I would judge the bike to be from the 80s. Appears to be in good condition, though. Probably very lightly used. But not worth more than $100, maybe half that.
    – Daniel R Hicks
    Mar 12, 2015 at 12:09
  • This question two me has two parts - the general applicable rules on evaluating a bicycle price and then one rather localized one regarding this particular bike. I would vote two have both separated because as seen in the diverse answers below this leads to broader and unspecific answers.
    – Th 00 mÄ s
    Mar 13, 2015 at 10:14

5 Answers 5

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You could:

  • measure the chain stretch
  • sight if the chainrings and cogs are worn out
  • check the wear of the tires
  • remove the seatpost and peak inside the frame for rust
  • pull the brakes and inspect closely the cables for rust
  • check the wheels for trueness
  • measure the weight of the bike with an electronic scale
  • rock the handlebars gently to check for drag in the headset
  • rock the rear derailleur sideways to check for play

Then select a modern bike of similar weight and number of gears. I would ask for 1/2 the price if all of the above points turn out OK, or less if some are obviously bad.

Another point to consider is if the bike is fit for upgrading with modern components at some point. For example, current standards are oversized (1 1/8") or tapered forks, removable derailleur hanger, 8-9-10 speed frame (I believe those use the same 135mm rear spacing).

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    50% is high for a private party. Even in perfect shape more like 40% and not of current price - of price when it was sold new. The bluebook in the answer from Mathew is what I have experienced. A resale shop with a short warranty then maybe 50% of current.
    – paparazzo
    Mar 12, 2015 at 17:47
  • @Blam, it's a question of perception. At a forum marketplace, where people from around my country resell old parts, the percent starts from about 50% and can reach 120% of the shop price, lol.
    – Vorac
    Mar 16, 2015 at 9:37
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If you know the model and exact year Bicycle Blue Book is a good place to start. This is a link to all the models for Peugeot:

http://www.bicyclebluebook.com/BicycleDatabase.aspx?make=718

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That bike is much older than 10 years. Probably somewhere in the '80s

The bike pictured below is quite similar to yours, and was built in 1985.

Bike

[Source: Peugeot 1985 product folder]

Note however that these frames are generally of good quality, and if not terribly rusty can be used for many more years (and of course are very cool and retro looking).

These old racers still make for great touring/commuting bikes! (Not entirely unbiased as I have multiple bikes like this and love them a lot!)

The price of such a bike, given that the frame is OK, is mostly determined by the state of all other components (wheels, gears, seat etc.) By the looks of it, most of the stuff on your bike is original, and looks like it's in good shape (definitely check this for yourself, photos are deceiving).

If everything is ok, I would probably pay around 100 - 150 € for this. Don't be fooled because of the supposed retro-coolness, these bikes are quite abundant and not rare at all. If everything is not ok, drop the price below 100€ and do some work yourself, very rewarding and fun!

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  • Aren't the frame and wheels on a racer too weak to support serious bicycle touring?
    – gerrit
    Mar 12, 2015 at 16:23
  • I have a similar bicycle. I use a trailer for touring. I think you are right that the bike is too light to put heavy bags on it, plus it is missing all mounting points or anchors so you could only use an even less sturdy "wrap around the tube" kind of mount, reducing the usefulness.
    – sleblanc
    Mar 12, 2015 at 16:43
  • Greatly depends on rider weight and amount of luggage. I am a fairly light guy, and I never pack more than 15Kg. My 1990 Giant racer has no mounting points either. I use a small seatpost attached rack. In 3000Km of touring/vacations over a few years, never had any issues with wheels, spokes or seatpost. In fact, the only problem I ever had are flats, and that is with the original wheels and everything. I guess 50% luck, 50% maintenance and bike care :)
    – biker12
    Mar 13, 2015 at 10:02
  • The stem mount shifters indicate to me that this may have been a pretty low-end frame for the day, since there were no braze-ons for down-tube shifters, so that may factor into your pricing.
    – FreeMan
    Mar 13, 2015 at 15:14
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With shimano 105 it must be from the 90s. Are gears indexed? I paid 140 € for a similar bike, and the 105 works like charm. See what steel the frame is made of too, and look it up con internet to get more refetences. But those are great bikes for the money. Not actually retro, I' d say; most retro races allow bikes up until 1987, a bike from say 1994 is too new to be retro, and too heavy to compare to new bikes, but they are still light and from my experience, shimano 105 ages really well. Really good commuter that you can leave on the street, but also can take you on long road routes. I've kept up with mine on 100 km route with modern bikes, so, good for initiate in road biking. I'd say go for it, if it works well, and I suppose you could resell for around the price you pay

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  • The components could be from the 90s, but the frame from the 1980s.
    – RoboKaren
    Mar 14, 2015 at 17:15
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Definitely an 80's frame and this was the best character of these bikes. Since that manufacture era, gears and brakes, even seats have evolved and you can buy better tech. These frames were steel and they are great commuters (for streets not so friendly). For me the price is directly related to how much stuff I do not need to replace or upgrade. The wheels look newish (that is where I would start). I might pay $275 to $325 for it and replace the seat. Grips look okay.

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