Chain with master link / quick connect link doesn't clear rear derailleur

Question

Bought a chain with a master link (packaging said quick connect link), it looks just like this:

This bit however won't fit cleanly through my derailleur, it snags on the wall right as it goes onto the first jockey wheel:

First off I tried adding a washer to widen the clearance between the derailleur plates. This helped a little but I can't add any more washers because the screws ain't long enough. I've tried reversing the direction of the master-link plate, won't work because it hits the cogs. I've also adjusted the high and low screws of the derailleur, to no avail.

I'm afraid that if I try to file down the pin it will make the chain more prone to failure. Wouldn't it be better to bend the derailleur plate out of the way somehow?

Am I missing something here, did I install something inappropriately or pick a wrong part?

EDIT: The packaging of the chain says 1/2 x 1/8 / 114L, suits most geared bicycles :D

Answer 1

That chain connector is not only for single speed, but I believe it is for 1/8" chains as well, so you may have a track chain, which is not meant for multi-speed drivetrains.

If it's not an 1/8" chain, and is instead a 3/32" chain, and your drive train is 8 speed or less, you can just replace the master link and you should be good to go. The master links only cost a few dollars so it can be a lot cheaper than swapping out the whole chain.

Master links for multi speed chains look more like this:

Or, if you have a chain tool, you could just remove a full link from the chain, skip the whole master link business entirely and ride today and let future Leeroy deal with it. Being short one link shouldn't be very problematic. This is also the only option if you have a 1/8" chain as mentioned above, and don't want to replace it.

Answer 2

Yes you have the wrong part. Count the number of cogs in the cassette / freewheel. Get a chain for that number of speeds. Probably a 9 speed.

Answer 3

The master link / joiner must be compatible with the chain your bike is running. That means 1/8" vs 3/32" and the overall thickness of the chain which relates to the speeds/number of cogs on the rear wheel.

I had this happen with the two-piece kind of master link as shown in @whatshisname's answer, and it was solved by using the kind in OP's original question.

Now, though, it's the other way around. I've also had master links that just wouldn't close no matter what I tried.

It seems like some of these problems are 'Luck of the draw' as far as parts quality goes.