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Background:

I've installed a complete new 105 group (this bike is a brand new custom build) on a Civia Hyland frame.

The rear wheel has a white industries CLD disc hub for the 11 speed cassettes.

The Civia doesn't have a brazed on cable stop, so I've installed a clamp on cable stop on the down tube for the FD cable.

I have an inline barrel adjuster at the cable stop. The Civia has adjustable dropouts, so I've put them as far back as possible, resulting in an effective chainstay length of around 435mm or so. The wheel is in the correct orientation, I've checked side to side length (wheel edge to downtube) and it lines up with the downtube.

I've installed the FD according to the shimano FD shop manual for this dérailleur.

The FD is a clamp on version.

I have plenty of tension, the FD (5800) shifts great and fast, the problem is rubbing.

I can actually adjust the FD so that BOTH the small front/large rear and large front/small rear rub on the FD. I can adjust it so that it rubs at both extremes! Note that I don't mean the cross-chained extremes here, i.e., big/big and small/small, these are ok with the trim positions (I also don't care about these, since I don't use them)

When in the small/big combo it rubs on the inner part of the FD cage. When in the big/small combo it rubs on the outer part of the FD cage.

I'm sure it isn't in a trim position. I'm using a 5800 shifter. I've tried both cable adjuster positions at the pinch bolt. There is slight runout on the big chain ring, but it is pretty small.

In the small/big (front/rear) combo, the chain rubs on the inner part of the cage. In the big/small combo, the chain rubs on the outer part of the cage. It is like my shifter isn't pulling enough cable on the final trim to big shift, or that the chainrings are actually spaced too far apart (I suppose I should pull the crank off and check the latter).

This also occurs with both adjustment screws backed all the way out, to ensure that the full shifter cable range is being utilized.

The chainline is correct at 43.5mm.

Has anyone else seen this problem? Do you think I have a bad shifter?

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3 Answers 3

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I've been riding the bike and really took a look today at the shifting while riding.

In the big/small combo, it looked like it just wasn't pulling enough cable to get it over far enough.

While I was riding I had an idea, perhaps the cable position coming from the cable stop had an effect (it should since it is basically a projection of the pull onto the the FD lever arm).

The cable stop was a clamp on aftermarket one, since the Civia Hyland doesn't have cable stops.

When I got home I decided to test it some more. I did two things :

  • moved the cable stop up and down
  • rotated the cable stop around the down tube

I managed to find a position where it worked! Barely, the tolerances on this thing are tight, but I can get it positioned where it barely doesn't rub now on small/big and on big/small.

  1. The cable stop was too close to the FD, it needed to be moved down.
  2. The cable stop was rotated too far away from the FD, it needed to be rotated closer to the centerline of the downtube.

This fixed the problem, these new FDs have very tight specs, it still barely, barely doesn't rub.

At least I have a cable stop that I can move around, if the cable stop were in a fixed position I couldn't have fixed this.

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Ok ,,, clarification is from Shimano .... depending from where the BB exit hole is (if there is an exit hole ) ---for the gear cable ---- the angle to the gear activating arm from the exit hole is quite simply too sharp for the arm to rotate fully around it's axis of movement . (The tangent is not large enough) . Shimano have included a " converter " on the pin under the clamping bolt , ie it can be rotated . This should enable the gear to move to all of the described positions on the instruction pamphlet that is included in the delivery packet of the gear. However , looking at Youtube ....there are several videos with the cable being fastened over the top of the clamping bolt ....which Shimano states should not be done .So obviously the " converter " position doesn't function on all frames .I don't know how to make this gear function correctly if it doesn't after setup ....that's why I maintain it is a faulty design.

Pages 9 and 10 will give a better description of the problem ....that's why Shimano have tool TL-FD68 available.

http://si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-FD0002-05-ENG.pdf

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    Thank you and welcome to SE - that's much better because its relevant to the question, and directly answers "what is wrong with...." so +1 from me. Please do have a browse through the tour because this website is a bit different (okay a lot different.)
    – Criggie ♦
    Commented Oct 29, 2017 at 9:37
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Its very unlikely to be the shifter. Much more likely you've not got it adjusted quite right. If its rubbing when you have it in the big ring at the front and small ring at the rear there are a couple of things to check: is the FD cable tight? If so then maybe the small screws on the FD that prevent the mech from moving too far need adjusted. Other obvious questions would be whether the shifter is for a double or triple (dont think you said) and 8/9/10/11 speed, as these would potentially result in a problem if the shifter isnt compatible with the driver train.

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  • It rubs in BOTH big/small and small/big, with the adjustment screws backed out so that they aren't limiting travel at all. It is compatible, all brand new Shimano 11speed 5800 group, they only have a double front for the 5800.
    – daaxix
    Commented Sep 8, 2015 at 14:14
  • Which side of the front mech rubs when its in the inner ring? One of the screws is to prevent the mech from moving inward too far and stop the chain from dropping off. If it rubs on the outside of the front mech when its in the inner ring you need to tighten the bottom stop adjuster screw.
    – robjwilkins
    Commented Sep 8, 2015 at 15:07
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    Remove all the tension from the FD cable. You can do this by simply unscrewing it at the FD. This should bring in as far in as it will go (towards the frame). Check the alignment to see if it is in roughly the correct place. Next push it out using your your hands and see how far it will go and check again. This will show you what your limits are set at and you can adjust them if necessary. If the limits look correct, then it could be the tension on the cable, or the FD isn't pointing straight and maybe needs to be rotated around the frame a little.
    – Stainy
    Commented Sep 8, 2015 at 16:16
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    -1. OP noticed in his question that the screws were unscrewed, he checked the tension, and did just all things that you wrote in the answer.
    – Alexander
    Commented Sep 8, 2015 at 18:17

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