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will a 29er rack fit 27x1 1/4 wheels, I've been looking at the axiom streamliner range as the frame has no specific mounts, although it does have an anchor point on the rear dropout.

The brakes are Raleigh branded weinmann alloy centre-pull as are the levers. However from the top of the hoods the levers feel very stiff, particularly the rear brake (left). Is there anything I can do without taking them apart? I.e. silicon spray into the pivot.

  • Its probably best to ask this as two separate questions. – Mauro Oct 10 '15 at 17:59
  • A 27-inch wheel is, believe it or not, slightly larger than a 29-inch one, for the same width tire. A 29er rack might fit a 27-inch bike, or might not. But there are a number of different reasons for a rack to fit a given bike or not. – Daniel R Hicks Oct 10 '15 at 21:18
  • Re the brake levers, it's hard to say. The levers will always be more difficult to operate from the hoods, vs with the hands out on the bar, just due to the difference in effective lever length. But the cables of a 1980 bike are apt to be a bit corroded and, at the very least, need lubrication, possibly replacement. – Daniel R Hicks Oct 10 '15 at 21:21
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I think you'll find that a rack that fits a 29er is meant to clear a relatively large tire. So you're likely to have room. If you wanted to get a better idea you might be able to ask to measure the rack at your LBS or see if there are specs on Axiom's web site. Or you could ask on Amazon. The number you're interested in is the distance from the lowest dropout attachment point to the bottom of the rack over the tire. Then measure that same distance on your bike. Allow about a centimeter (1/2 an inch) for fenders if you think you'd like to use them.

Do the cables and housing look to be of a similar vintage to the bike? The rear brake usually has a longer length of housing and corrosion or junk (bug nests?) in the housing will drag on the brakes. As a quick check you could pull off the rear wheel and work the brakes several times – adding lubricant if you have some on hand – to see if they brakes start to free up. While you do this, watch the behavior of the inner cable, if it is hanging up on the housing you may see that it stays slack for a moment or takes up slowly when you release the brake lever.

If working the cable seems to help then the best thing to do would be to replace the cables. It wouldn't be a bad idea to replace the shift cables too. A little bit of lube on the pivot points wouldn't hurt either. Just keep it away from the rim and pads.

  • axiomgear.com/files/fitting/streamliner-29er-dlx.jpg, So I should measure the 410+3 equivalent? And on the bike I should be looking at ~ 415-420 to have decent clearence? – Goods Oct 11 '15 at 8:04
  • That's 410 ±3 mm to the top of the rack. I'd use 400 as the number to allow for the rack tubing – the distance you actually care about is to the bottom of the rack. If you measure about 380 mm from the attachment point on the dropout to the top of the tire you'd have 10 mm of clearance from the tire to a fender and another 10 mm for the fender itself. A 27" rim has a 630 mm bead seat diameter, the tire will and another 64 (32 * 2), so you at around 700 mm (350 mm from axel to the top of the tire). You should have plenty of clearance. – dlu Oct 12 '15 at 1:29

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