I recently in the past year have had problem my front tire. It is about 3 years old and this year it has had about 3 tube replacements, many patches, and recently (in the past month) a new front rim replacement.

At first I just replaced my tube then it popped soon after so I checked the inside of the rim for loose things that may cause it to do so and didn't find any so I put a new tube in. It occurred again so I bought a new rim and tube. Not even a month later the rim is bent slightly and the tube has gone flat.

I don't now what to do. I don't ride it on rough terrain and I have been riding the same way and bike for two or three years now. Please try and offer suggestions that I could try. Thank you

  • 2
    Have you checked the tire to make sure theres nothing (Glass, nail, thorn) stuck in it? Do the punctures always occur in place - in relation to the valve or tire (One reason to align a mark on the tire to the valve). A new tire would probably help. Bent rim is probably a result of low tire pressure
    – mattnz
    Aug 13, 2016 at 3:27
  • 1
    What do the punctures look like?
    – Batman
    Aug 13, 2016 at 4:06
  • 1
    So, the tyre is the consistent unchanged thing the whole time?
    – Criggie
    Aug 13, 2016 at 4:58
  • 1
    Replacing rim on a 3 year old bike? Do you ride 80 km/day, 360 days a year?
    – Kaz
    Aug 14, 2016 at 1:34
  • 1
    My first question would be about your tire pressure. Especially if you're getting bent rims I'd guess your tire pressure is far too low and you're seeing "snake bite" flats. You should get yourself a good floor pump with built-in pressure gauge and assure that your tires (assuming they're not ultra-wide ones) are inflated to at least 50 PSI, perhaps 75 or more, depending on tire width. Aug 14, 2016 at 2:20

3 Answers 3


Firstly, when you get a flat, you should make a mark across the tire and rim, and also remember the left-right orientation of the tube. Later, you can use this mark to align the tire to the rim exactly as it was when you got the flat, and from the location of the leak on the tube, you can later find the exact area of the tire and rim corresponding to the tube leak. You can focus your search for the problem there. Sometimes foreign objects are embedded in the tire such that they protrude very little and are not palpable. I have seen a bit of glass do this, as well as a piece of steel staple: basically sitting flush with the tire both inside and outside.

Pay attention whether these punctures are on the outside of the tube, where the tire tread meets the road, next to the sidewall or inside of the rim. That's a clue. A foreign object from the road won't ever puncture the inside; that suggests a rim problem.

Punctures are caused by foreign objects, by pinch flats, and by sharp edges in a rim. Pinch flats are due insufficient tire pressure allowing the tube to get pinched between the rim and some object that you hit while riding. In cheap, single-walled rims, the spoke nuts protrude into the air chamber area and come into contact with the tube. They also exhibit rough edges, and must be securely covered by a rim tape. Sometimes what passes for rim tape on cheaper bicycle wheels is just a rubber band that is supposed to stay in place under its own tension.

See this table for a ballpark tire pressure you should be using as a starting point, based on your tire width. If you go significantly lower, you risk those pinch flats.


... many patches ...

Patches will leak if they aren't done properly; the more of them you have on a tube, the greater the likelihood of a leak. If you have three patches, and two are good, but one is not so good, that's exactly like a tube with a single not-so-good patch. They all have to be excellent. When I patch a tube, I press the patched area between two wooden planks using a pair of F-clamps, and leave it clamped for at least 24 hours. After that I pack it up into a box; I don't use that tube right away, but carry it as a spare. That gives it more time to cure before the first inflation. After all that, I still cross my fingers when using the tube for the first time, and closely monitor the tire pressure in the days that follow.

  • I prefer to test my repaired tubes in a bucket of water before taking them as spares on a ride. It can save a v-e-r-y l-o-n-g w-a-l-k!
    – andy256
    Aug 16, 2016 at 6:57

Look for any object or stickers on the inside of your tire. The best way is to feel the inside slowly with your hand being careful to not puncture or cut yourself in the process.

Once you cannot find any objects that could be piercing tubes fit new tubes.

But do this and you won't have anymore problems with the route you ride. There is a special plastic lining that you can buy at any bike shop. It will go inside the tire and then the tube so the plastic lining protects the tube.

Pump slime into the new tube before air. Follow directions on bottle typical small bottle will do both tubes. The cap of the slime bottle is your valve stem tool. Okay now after the slime is in per directions put valve stem back in and fill with air to proper p.s.i. (pounds per square inch). Amount of p.s.i. usually located on side wall of tire. After that you tires are now considered Bullet Proof. It's just an expression. But I promise you do this and you won't be disappointed

  • 1
    Slime is junk that will clog the valve, making it impossible to get air into or out of the tube. You will regret it when the tube is full of the stuff, and won't deflate so that you can get the tire of the rim.
    – Kaz
    Aug 14, 2016 at 1:37

I am plagued by flats. The number you describes isn't abnormally high, but definitely an inconvenience. The only defense I have found that appears to be bulletproof is a set of Schwalbe tires that have the "Plus" guard in them. I currently ride the Durano Plus and have not had a flat on them, or any other model "Plus" for 15 years. I purchased a Trek recently, and within 900 miles I had two flats with the bontrager tires. She now has Durano Plus tires mounted, and no more flats after 1300 miles.

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