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We're looking at a Raleigh (very) lightweight bike with Easton R4 hubs on it. enter image description here The rear (apparently part # HD10M1732 on the hub) has a broken spoke on the non-drive side. To access the spoke ends we must remove the cone-shaped piece (#2 in the diagram) on the non-drive side. I got the thing most of the way apart but couldn't get the end cap (#1) off.

Before I apply a bigger hammer (uh, I mean wrench) to it I wanted to make sure this piece comes off as a standard right-hand thread. Thinking about it, one would observe that the twist on the main shaft (#6) is clockwise, as seen from the drive side, so, viewed from that direction it imply a "standard" thread. But precession would imply the opposite. However, I don't see how precession could be a factor here.

Has anyone here ever taken one of these apart?

Summary of findings:

  • All threads (on this version of the hub) are "normal" right-hand threads.
  • The non-drive-side end cap (#1) and cone-shaped preload adjuster (#2) are both threaded onto the same threaded section of the axle (#6).
  • Assuming that the preload adjuster can be adjusted, the "handedness" of that end of the axle can be double-checked by observing which way the preload adjuster moves when you twist it.
  • The whole thing (other than the sprocket cluster) comes apart with allen wrenches -- both end caps and both ends of the axle have a hexagonal interior, to accept an allen wrench. (The sprocket cluster uses a conventional cassette tool, which is not needed to access the spokes or bearings.)
  • The only non-allen wrench you need is the (larger than normal) cone wrench (19mm?) for the preload adjuster.
  • But note that the wrench you need for the drive end of the axle is quite large -- I'm thinking it was 6mm.
  • To remove the non-drive-side components you'll probably need to first remove the drive-side end cap and use the large allen wrench in the end of the axle. Though you could get lucky and have the non-drive-side cap come off first when you first twist both caps.
  • This video has them going lefty-loosy on the end caps. youtube.com/watch?v=8e-Ygjm9oWY – alex Aug 24 '16 at 1:09
  • @alex - Problem is, I need to remove the other end cap. In the video they act like it doesn't even come off. – Daniel R Hicks Aug 24 '16 at 1:23
  • Yeah, not a totally helpful video, but about the only thing I could find with a R4 hub in it. – alex Aug 24 '16 at 1:26
  • I've just had an Easton M1-221 apart and the non-drive side is left hand threaded. Not the same hub, but not totally different, only one threaded cap though. – alex Aug 24 '16 at 1:28
  • I would also say, that in my experience, Easton stuff is not super torqued down from the factory, have you tried unthreading the other way gently? – alex Aug 24 '16 at 1:29
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Yes, this is a horrible hub due tot he cone shaped pieces you are hammering on. You need to go to the shop and buy one 19mm (I believe) cone wrench. It'll solve everything. Also, buy another set of these cone pieces as they are what adjust the bearing tension (they are sealed bearings) and you have likely damaged them.

If there is no indentation for a cone wrench, which was the case on mine, I used a rubber mallet and taped at the cones obliquely as possible till they were off. The new ones will have the cones wrench fitting.

Easton had a problem with these cones coming loose. The way that mechanics handled it was to use loctite, which held them in place but made it insanely hard to remove without that oversized cone wrench. The new cones you'll buy are the updates and will hold on their own.

While your at it, be sure to clean the pawls thoroughly and use a thick oil, like gear oil, or marine grease to lube. And pick up a new seal so it won't let water in.

That is what the problem is. I destroyed the cone pieces in the end, cleaned the threads on the hub, lubed them with light grease and put them together. Customer is still using them years later. Good luck!

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Had another crack at this today.

First tried unscrewing the recalcitrant end cap the other way (ie, "tightening"), but no go.

Next, based on Alex's suggestion, I looked closely at the direction the adjustment cone turned. Studying that (could turn it about two turns), it appeared to be a right-hand thread, so I got a bigger hammer, I mean wrench (a hollow seat post on the allen wrench), and applied just about all the muscle I had.

It popped loose (quickly enough that I first wondered if I'd broken something), and then the adjustment cone slowly unthreaded (I'm guessing there's some thread lock on it). The axle could then be pulled out and the ends of the spokes were exposed and (after battling the gooped nipple for several minutes) easily removed.

Of course, no one in town has the right spokes, so they must be ordered. Which leaves me some time to think about how badly I want to preserve the "authenticity" of (obviously deflated) tubeless tires vs canning that bit of nonsense and installing tubes.

(Alex, if you want to make your bit of advice about checking the cone +/- direction into an official answer I'll give a plus and the answer checkmark.)

  • Don't need the points, glad you sorted it out. – alex Aug 26 '16 at 0:46
  • New cones will have a +/- marked conveniently on them. – user26705 Aug 26 '16 at 15:02

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