We're looking at a Raleigh (very) lightweight bike with Easton R4 hubs on it. The rear (apparently part # HD10M1732 on the hub) has a broken spoke on the non-drive side. To access the spoke ends we must remove the cone-shaped piece (#2 in the diagram) on the non-drive side. I got the thing most of the way apart but couldn't get the end cap (#1) off.
Before I apply a bigger hammer (uh, I mean wrench) to it I wanted to make sure this piece comes off as a standard right-hand thread. Thinking about it, one would observe that the twist on the main shaft (#6) is clockwise, as seen from the drive side, so, viewed from that direction it imply a "standard" thread. But precession would imply the opposite. However, I don't see how precession could be a factor here.
Has anyone here ever taken one of these apart?
Summary of findings:
- All threads (on this version of the hub) are "normal" right-hand threads.
- The non-drive-side end cap (#1) and cone-shaped preload adjuster (#2) are both threaded onto the same threaded section of the axle (#6).
- Assuming that the preload adjuster can be adjusted, the "handedness" of that end of the axle can be double-checked by observing which way the preload adjuster moves when you twist it.
- The whole thing (other than the sprocket cluster) comes apart with allen wrenches -- both end caps and both ends of the axle have a hexagonal interior, to accept an allen wrench. (The sprocket cluster uses a conventional cassette tool, which is not needed to access the spokes or bearings.)
- The only non-allen wrench you need is the (larger than normal) cone wrench (19mm?) for the preload adjuster.
- But note that the wrench you need for the drive end of the axle is quite large -- I'm thinking it was 6mm.
- To remove the non-drive-side components you'll probably need to first remove the drive-side end cap and use the large allen wrench in the end of the axle. Though you could get lucky and have the non-drive-side cap come off first when you first twist both caps.