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So I've had to change my chain because my indicator says it's worn. It did also seem to stretch quite a lot more then the new chain.

I think I may have fed it into the rear mech hanger incorrectly since it now skips every time I pedal instead of occasionally.enter image description here +

On my rear mech hanger there is clearly a metal tab going across the width of the mech. Does the chain have to go underneath it or over it.

If it's under, it seems impossible unless I take the bottom jockey wheel out. but I don't want to dismantle and make matters worse.

I can see why this can be confusing. The picture above I omitted the chain on purpose so it was clear what I was referring to

I had it routed like this

enter image description here

Is it correct now?

How about my front chain rings. They don't look right to me but am not a mechanic.

Chain links

Chain link image.

  • There is typically a (seemingly senseless) "tongue" attached to one of the side pieces of the derailer, about midway between the pulleys. I don't recall, without looking at a unit, whether the chain goes "over" or "under", but when properly routed the chain should not rub against the "tongue". Obviously you can get the chain on the wrong side if you take the chain off and then reinstall it, but I've also had the chain relocate itself somehow to the "wrong" side when futzing with a wheel, trying to get it installed. If there's enough slack in the chain you can generally work it past. – Daniel R Hicks Aug 27 '16 at 17:40
  • BTW, your cogs appear to be worn, but not to the point where I'd expect you to have trouble with them. I'm kind of wondering if you got your chain length correct. The new chain should have the same number of links as the old one. (It should be shorter, since the old chain is "stretched".) – Daniel R Hicks Aug 27 '16 at 17:45
  • if I have badly worn front chain ring, can it affect the rear deraileur shifting? – Ageis Aug 27 '16 at 22:12
  • A badly worn front ring will generally only affect rear shifting if the bad ring is "hooked" and causes the chain to catch intermittently. (Usually the effects of "hooked" cogs on the rear are lessened by changing out the chain, but, as you may have discovered, changing the chain when the front ring is hooked tends to make matters worse.) – Daniel R Hicks Aug 27 '16 at 22:54
  • So are u saying i need a new crankset? I want to solve my problem so i can lake district – Ageis Aug 28 '16 at 8:14
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Your chain is set up correctly in the second picture. It should go over the metal tab.

The reason your chain is skipping is probably because your cogs are worn out. If this is the case, you should replace your freewheel/cassette to avoid destroying your new chain.

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    It's generally easier to remove/reinstall a pulley than to "break" and rejoin the chain. – Daniel R Hicks Aug 27 '16 at 17:41
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    That statement is only true if your chain doesn't have some company's equivalent of the quicklink. In my experience (with a replacement chain) that means it is false the majority of the time. Given there is a quicklink showing in this picture, it's false in this case. – Deleted User Aug 27 '16 at 21:10
  • @SuspendedUser I'm not sure which statement you're talking about... are you saying it should go under the metal tab? – BSO rider Aug 27 '16 at 21:14
  • No. I was talking about the idea of removing pulleys to install/correct a chain. That's belt drive insanity talk there. – Deleted User Aug 27 '16 at 21:21
  • A chain may also skip if it is too long. Have you matched the length of the new chain (number of links) to the previous chain? – Carel Aug 28 '16 at 8:13

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