I'm new to the sport of cycling, although I have been biking as transportation for a few years. I'm a poor college student in possession of a hybrid bike, a Mongoose Crossway. I went into a local bikeshop and tried out the Trek Domane and was amazed by the feeling, which was like flying. I would love to bike something like the Seattle to Portland. Mostly I would like a bike with drop down handles and decent gears to help climb up hills.

My Dad (an immigrant from Europe) biked as his main source of transportation until his late twenties. When he was my age, a cyclist friend gave him a racing training bike (aluminum or possibly steel), which he used for all his practical and recreational purposes. He's adamant that I should have a similar experience.

He has offered my monetary assistance on two conditions.

1.) A road bike that is a 'racing bike'. He refuses to fund any sort of 'touring bike', such as the Trek 520.

2.) The bike must have fenders and a rack.

Having some trouble finding a racing bike with fenders and a rack. So far a bike I have found that matches the requirements is the Jamis Xenith Endura Elite Di2, but since I am new to the sport any guidance would be greatly appreciated!

  • If you're new to the sport, I'd strongly suggest not spending that much money on a new bike -- electronic shifting is expensive. Pure-bred road racers don't have fender+rack mounts (and P-clamping a carbon racer = not a great idea). But a lot of road bikes which are not touring bikes which are suitable for commuting have rack+fender mounts (this includes some lower end "race bikes" like the Trek 1.x series, older versions of the Specialized Allez, etc.).
    – Batman
    Sep 14, 2016 at 6:44
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    Welcome to Bicycles @continuing. We recommend all new members take the tour to make best use of the site. To say what Batman said differently, a race bike doesn't have fenders or rack. The types of bikes and what each name means is continually changing, so I suggest that you and your Dad go over a bunch of bike ads to see what is out there. Buying used is always better value for money. This answer may help also.
    – andy256
    Sep 14, 2016 at 7:22
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    Totally go the used bike route. Your Dad might be able to tell you more about the bike he had - something of similar heritage might be cool. Clip-on fenders/mudgards exist, as do dinky ass-savers. Racks won't go on a racey bike - look at a jersey with 3 pockets, a backpack, saddle bag, or a frame bag. Could be your Dad means for the rack for carrying your significant other about like he did?
    – Criggie
    Sep 14, 2016 at 9:22
  • The bike you're after exists but won't be found in a high street bike shop. There are a few good steel examples out there such as the Surly Pacer and Soma Smoothie. Both are road bikes with race geometry and rear rack mounts. Also steel road bikes are far more durable and cooler than alloy or carbon! (I actually have a carbon roadie but a steel 26" hardtail for fun and nostalgia!)
    – DWGKNZ
    Sep 14, 2016 at 11:20
  • Consider looking into cyclocross bikes (e.g. Trek CrossRip)? They aren't pure race bikes, but are used for racing, often come with rack mount capability, etc...
    – Ross
    Sep 14, 2016 at 13:14

2 Answers 2


The problem with nostagia is the n+1 rule. Bikes manufacturers have been on a never ending quest to make bikes more and more task specific. This means most "racing" bikes are not well suited to everyday transportation riding.

Modern "Race" Road Bikes

Mixing fenders and a rack with a modern road race bikes is like trying to get oil and water to mix. The frames often lack any sort of eyelets and depending on the material are largely incompatible with any sort of clamp, so adding a rack is largely out of the question. Carbon frames should not be clamped at all, and a race frame made of aluminium will be quite thin in parts now due to all the hydro-forming now used in modern frames making it incompatible to clamping as well. Modern steel racing bikes are pretty rare now and usually custom built or frame only options.

Modern race bikes also have very aggressive postures compared to older "racing" road bikes like your father likely rode. Even if you can add a rack, they will become unhinged with little added luggage weight and the aggressive position is not particularly comfortable for more moderate pacing. (An aggressive position is typically only comfortable when you continually riding at a hard effort.)

Other Types of Modern Road Bikes

If a touring bike is what ever reason not an option, then try looking for other road categories often referred to as "road sport", "endurance road" or now "all road". These bikes will have a more upright position, which will make them more comfortable for everyday riding, and depending on the brand will likely have more tire clearance (good for running fenders) and eyelets mounting fenders and may also have an eyelet on the seat stay for mounting a rack (make sure to check, as some brands skip this feature). To the untrained eye these bikes will look very virtually identical to a racing bike.


The other option is getting an older "racing bikes" like what your father had. These tended to have fender eyelets (which can also be used for racks) to have more tire clearance for running fenders. They were also largely steel which means the frame can be clamped for adding a rack when no eyelets exist. The shifting is robust but not as responsive as modern systems and the brakes tend to be subpar compared to modern brakes (rim/caliper or disc).

Components on a older bike can of course be updated.

  • You can fit modern brakes on an old frame (relatively cheaply; and a modern drivetrain, if you're so inclined for not so cheap in some cases). Also, a lot of the bikes with fender eyelets are just that -- fender eyelets. You don't have the rack attachment at the seatstays, so you need to P-clamp or brake bolt or something else.
    – Batman
    Sep 14, 2016 at 7:42
  • @Batman - I should amend to say seat stay and fender eyelets. It used to be most modern frames with fender eyelet used to come with seat stay eyelets, but it seems to be less the case. If you don't have seat stay eyelets you can use a clamp on the seat post. This is less concerning than clamping the frame. And I agree older frames can be updated, I assumed the OP was looking for something to ride immediately.
    – Rider_X
    Sep 14, 2016 at 14:54

I do long distance self supported road riding. For this style of event you need to be able to carry luggage and having fenders (we call them mudguards in the UK) is an advantage

If you look on my website http://audaxing.wordpress.com there is lots info on this type of bike

If you want to exclude the heavier sort of bikes (touring bikes, 29ers with drops, Surlys) then there a few other options

There are three possible solutions to this problem, based on three types of bike. The types of bike I'll try and explain are a "winter trainer",a "adventure bike" and a "standard racer"

A winter trainer is (I would guess) the type of bike that your Dad had. I have a Ridley Aeron that is this type of bike. It has mudguard eyes, rack points but it only allows narrow 25mm tyres with mudguards. It has rim brakes, not disk brakes. Weight wise it is about the same as a "standard racer" made of similar material. My winter trainer is aluminium but steel is also a common material. Pricewise they tend to be cheaper and if you buy it built up into a full bike it will have lower end components. I built mine up from a frame and it has 38x48 chainrings and a mtb 11-34 cassette

The Adventure bike is the latest thing from the marketing depts of the bike industry. Also known as a gravel bike this is a fast road bike but with some touring bike, cross bike and MTB features. They have tyre clearance for large tyres - which are comfortable on long distances and usually have mudguard eyes. Strangely, not all of them have rack mounts because there is also a fashion for attaching dry bags with velcro (so called "bike packing" luggage) instead of using racks. These tend to be as light as a compariable "standard racer" but somewhat more expensive. They also always have disk brakes. I have a built up Genesis Datum 20, you can see the spec on their website. It has wonderful SKS longboard mudguards with 30mm tyres

Finally there is the "standard racer". This is just like the bikes on the Tour de France. It is super light, has no mudguard or rack points. To fit mudguards on these bikes you use special kits with metal p-clips to attach standard mudguards or you use clip on mudguards. The best type of clip on mudguard is the Crud Roadrace. These are full length, fit any racing bike, has excellent coverage but don't last very long before falling to bits.

If you really want to fit a rack to a "standard racer" or a "adventure" bike then probably the best option is to attach a seat post mounted rack

If I want to carry a lot of "stuff" on a racing or adventure bike with no rack mounts I would use a saddle bag and/or a bar bag

Hope this information helps

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