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I would like to upgrade my derailleur and use a derailleur hanger for my next derailleur. Currently I have an old type of derailleur and so, the wheel does not sit back properly. I have had many problems in the past, but I would like to get that out of my mind and enjoy my rides with a derailleur hanger. I have attached a picture of the current setup.enter image description here

Edit: The lockout is my problem. The other side has a huge gap, thus causing the wheel not to sit back properly as I said and the tire may make contact with the frame sometimes, as it has happened in the past. After a flat for instance, I need to position the wheel back at a special position so that it doesn't make contact to the frame. The current derailleur setup does no allow the wheel to have enough space on the horizontal lockout and I need to find the "perfect" spot or I will have problems. See how less the left side grips on the frame! enter image description here

I don't really remember the year I bought it, let along the year of manufacture. But all I know is it was brought brand new (not used) before 2013 and after 2006. It had cantilevers with a diameter of 8mm and a fork with threads on, so it was difficult to find these parts to upgrade it. It's an Ideal bike made with a steel frame Edit: case closed! After being searching for my frame online, I found out a solution! Thank you all for your time, I really appreciate it!!

  • Looks like a 7 speed freewheel, with quite close spacing. Not many hills in your area I guess? – Criggie Oct 28 '16 at 21:51
  • Yes I have some hills around here. What does the fact that the freewheel has close spacing mean? – user30058 Oct 29 '16 at 12:29
  • Absolutely nothing, hence the comment. I guess the point is that a freewheel is an older solution which topped out at ~7 cogs on the back. Generally speaking, more modern bikes have freehubs and have less slot like concerns you. – Criggie Oct 29 '16 at 21:10
  • It's easier with fenders. You get the wheel into the dropouts, with the QR ready to close but still a hair loose. Pull back on the wheel by gripping the rim and fender with one hand, then eyeball the space on both sides of the tire where it passes between the seat and chain stays. Twist the wheel left or right until the tire is centered, then close the QR. Without a QR it's almost easier -- get the drive side all the way back in the dropout, then tighten the nut on that side. Center the wheel, then tighten the other nut. – Daniel R Hicks Oct 30 '16 at 12:02
  • (I have seen a few bikes with an adjustable metal bit on the non-drive side, attached like a hanger, which would in theory assure the wheel is centered. Likely more trouble than it's worth, though, as the above procedure is quite simple.) – Daniel R Hicks Oct 30 '16 at 12:04
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enter image description here

What is this in the image? Cause it kinda looks like it could be a built in hanger... if that is the case, get a direct mount derailleur and your wheel will be much easier to align.

I added this in addition to my other answer because this has become two different questions essentially.

  • Oh wow! Hadn't even seen it! It was hiding! I had found a hanger for this frame and I was ready to buy it! Thank you very much money saver! – user30058 Oct 31 '16 at 16:00
  • Is that what it is? If that is the case, that may be the cause of all your issues, someone put a non original style replacement on there. The wheels will still be somewhat of a pain to get perfectly aligned but if you switch to a direct mount derailleur i bet your shifting quality improves. – Nate W Oct 31 '16 at 16:28
  • Yes! I went straight down after reading your answer to check if that was the case and it was. I have found a nice shimano tourney for a few bucks with a pull hook and I think I am going to buy it! – user30058 Oct 31 '16 at 16:34
  • As long as its a direct mount and not a built in hanger like what you have now, and for the same speed you should be all set. Glad it got sorted out! – Nate W Oct 31 '16 at 16:59
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I've worked with the kind of setup you've got, and unfortunately the trouble you're having is basically "working as intended". You need to push the axle/nut as far in as it'll go on the drive side, tighten that nut down most of the way, then you align it by moving the axle in the dropout on the other side until the wheel's centered correctly. You then tighten down that other side, holding the wheel in place since the nut can make the axle move in the dropout when you tighten it down, then tighten the drive side down all the way too. A quick release axle is a bit simpler, you just have to align it then tighten down the cam on the skewer without worrying about the bolts moving the axle.

The reason behind this is that with older/cheaper bikes, the dropouts aren't necessarily perfectly aligned. More expensive frames would have screws in the dropouts that you could tighten/loosen down until the alignment was just right, then push the axle in until it hit the screws.

enter image description here

  • Thank you very much! But isn't there any solution to that problem? Won't a derailleur hanger work in this occasion? – user30058 Oct 28 '16 at 21:19
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    I've added an image from davesbikeblog.squarespace.com showing the dropout screws from a high end frame. You could semi-duplicate the effect by putting a mounting (thing) in the non-drive dropout, like in the drive side. – Criggie Oct 29 '16 at 21:19
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    Example - the silver nut thing in d3d71ba2asa5oz.cloudfront.net/12013639/images/… Some filing may be required to get it perfect-sized. – Criggie Oct 29 '16 at 21:19
  • Yes but in this frame-occasion one could put the derailleur with a bolt and should worry about the dropout. I am just trying to figure out if I can have a derailleur hanger for my frame. – user30058 Oct 30 '16 at 7:30
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My bike has dropouts like yours - here the flow I'd use:

  1. Fit the wheel into the dropouts - making sure the right side of the axle is as far up the slot as possible, and that the chain is placed correctly.
  2. Tighten the right side axle nut completely.
  3. Fit the rear brakes - One of mine is V brakes so that means fitting the noodle. On cantis means fitting the straddle cable.
  4. Use a clamp on the rear brake lever to activate the rear brake. An assistant's hand would do.
  5. Stand on the left of the bike with the left pedal forward. Put your left hand on the tyre/rim where it passes between the chainstays and hold it centered.
  6. Use your socket or spanner in your right hand to tighten the remaining axle nut where it lies. Don't push it up the dropout slot.

Hold the rim firmly while doing up the left nut. You should have enough leverage.

Lastly, remove brake clamp, and lift the wheel from the ground. Give it a test spin. There should be no rub on seat or chain stays or brakes or mudguards, and the brakes should close properly. Then inflate the tyre if required.

  • I have been using this technique for a very long time now. My problem is that since I do tricks with this bike, I am not at all happy with the left side standing so close to the end of the dropout. This is the result of the technique you told be and the technique I have been using. Can't the wheel go further back in the dropout with any trick? – user30058 Oct 29 '16 at 6:33
  • @user30058 you could remove the derailleur completely, giving more space to slide backwards up the dropout,. But then you'd loose all ability to change gear. Single speed conversion might help though. – Criggie Oct 29 '16 at 6:53
  • I wouldn't go for that as I ride in a town with many slopes... – user30058 Oct 29 '16 at 7:22
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Derailleur hangers are generally based on the frame of the bike. Cheaper or entry level derailleurs (no offense intended) are either Direct mount:

enter image description here

Where the fixing bolt bolts directly into the frame. Or hanger mount:

enter image description here

Where the derailleur has an extention that goes behind the nut or bolt. This is what it looks like your current model is. These differ from high end hangers in fit and function.

Newer bikes with removable hangers, have them formed to the specific bike and most all are different from one brand to another. They are made of a special hardness aluminum so that when caught on a rock or root they bend rather than tweaking the aluminum frame of the bike. As you can see the two below are very different, both are model and brand dependent, so you can't exactly upgrade only the hanger.

enter image description hereenter image description here You would likely benefit from replacing the chain, freewheel cluster, and derailleur if your having issues. They look well worn. I'm sure a proper bike shop could also help you sort out exactly what needs to be done to get it shifting and performing like you would like it to. A lot of older bikes that use the older style hanger are steel framed and this is not as much of an issue.

The Wheel not "sitting back properly" is likely another issue all together. An appropriate derailleur for the bike should not be limiting the postition of the wheel.

  • I have provided additional information about the subject above. Could you please check it out? – user30058 Oct 28 '16 at 17:21
  • Just saw this, Jaime's new answer sums it up pretty well. Unfortunately it is some what of a poorly designed system, and why most bikes these days have a different design. – Nate W Oct 28 '16 at 21:09
  • Seeing this again after some time I remembered having seen both kinds of derailleurs for the exact same price. (Under 20bucks) – user30058 Oct 30 '16 at 7:41

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