7

I'm cleaning out most of the bearings on my new (second hand) bike.

I'm replacing the grease inside the pedal bearings and I was wondering.

How many ball bearings should be inside? I thought there had to be just enough to fill the full circle, but a friend of mine told me I should fill the circle to its fullest and then remove one ball.

The reason, he said, is that else there is to much pressure on the bearings.

Is this true? And is it true for all the bearings (say, the ones in my hubs)?

And also, I'm putting vaseline (the yellow heavy-duty variant) inside the bearings – is that a good idea?

  • I'll just toss in here that the most common "loose" ball counts are 7 and 9, with an occasional 8. – Daniel R Hicks Jun 3 at 12:24
4

The reason behind the "full less one" is that you need at least half the race full (rounded up) for it to work and performance improves with more balls past that point, but if it's too full you get a dramatic loss in performance. So "full less one" is an easy guide.

In practice most bearings spread a little as you tighten the cones so "full" when you're adding balls is not actually full in use. You can usually see this - when you're adding balls they generally sit in against the axle, then when you add the cone it spreads the bearings slightly. So filling the race is almost always fine.

Don't be tempted to add one more to fill in the extra space created when you tighten it up, this is exactly the situation the "full less one" guide is trying to avoid. That "full plus one" means all the load is on one bearing (and one section of the cone), plus the bearings are really grnding against each other as the wheel rotates. If you're lucky the wheel won't rotate in this situation, but if you're unlucky you're wreck the cups and have to replace the cups (or hub, if the cups are not replaceable).

5

The general rule is a full race minus one ball. But if the race holds, say, 20.5 balls (ie, has space for more than 1/2 additional ball but not a full additional ball) then you can use as many as will fit (without forcing).

There probably is a (very small) rolling resistance advantage in using fewer balls (down to perhaps 3/4 full) but it would be at the expense of increased wear on the cones and races.

Do note that you should try to use all new balls or all balls that are originally from the same axle. The balls wear slightly over time and adding a new ball to a bunch of used ones will mean the new ball is slightly larger and will create additional wear and resistance.

You should use a good bicycle bearing grease for the bearings. This will resemble your standard black/brown/gray automotive grease but is better formulated for the conditions in a bicycle hub. At the very least use the automotive grease -- I would not expect petroleum jelly to hold up very well in a bike axle.

  • so no vaseline you'd say? – romeovs Jun 25 '11 at 10:04
  • I'd say. Vaseline is not intended to be a lubricant of things mechanical and is (among other things) apt to run out when it gets too warm (and a bike bearing will get warm after a few minutes use). – Daniel R Hicks Jun 25 '11 at 13:39
  • The vaseline I'm talking about came from a hardware shop (it's not the luvvy-duvvy kind of pink gel), it's a thick yellow paste. I'm also talkin about the ball bearing inside the pedals, do these get hot too? – romeovs Jun 25 '11 at 13:43
  • Not familiar with the variety of Vaseline you're describing -- I'm guessing it's a food-grade lube intended for kitchen appliances, etc. Might be OK, might not. Pedals are a special problem since they tend to collect dirt, grit, and moisture faster than any other bearing. The specialized bike lubes are generally designed to repel dirt and moisture better than standard lubes. – Daniel R Hicks Jun 25 '11 at 19:24
  • It's not so much a question of wear as a question of manufacturing tolerances. Reuse all the old balls if you have to, otherwise use all new balls from the same batch. If you have a few new balls left from one packet, don't mix them with new balls from a different packet. sheldonbrown.com/harris/bearings.html – armb Jun 3 at 12:00
1

Did you not count the ones you removed? That's basic...

Also, be sure to take a couple of the old ones to the shop so that they can match the size; most are standard but some bikes have odd-ball sizes. And be sure to buy new bearings; they are cheap and most authorities recommend that old ones not be re-used.

  • I did count them, but I had one axle where a couple of them broke. I couldn't make out how many broke and so how many to put back in.. – romeovs Jun 22 '11 at 5:58
  • 1
    Yep, counting the existing bearings is the basic method. The advanced method is to find out how many there should be, and why. The last owner could have put too many in – Swifty Jun 1 at 11:29
  • 1
    Also, if you had a bearing with balls in retainers, and you are changing it to loose balls, you'll want roughly twice as many. – armb Jun 3 at 12:03
0

From an engineers point of view, if any of the balls were deformed or fractured, I would suggest that the cups and cones would be shot also. If they have just one visible line, crater or flat on the bearing contact surface, then new balls will not last very long in any case. When in doubt, use white lithium grease preferred or Castrol boat trailer grease.

-1

For a Nikishi Eliminator, I had 9 ball bearings with a diameter of 6.35mm (1/4")on each side of the real wheel. I haven't checked if there is the same number at the front wheel.

  • I don't think this really answers the question. People have already described how to choose the correct number of balls for any bearing, so how does giving the answer for one specific bearing help? If we included an answer for every bearing that appears on any bike, there'd be thousands. – David Richerby Jun 1 at 11:22
  • 1
    Also, the front wheel uses more and smaller balls (makes no sense but that's the way it is) – Criggie Jun 1 at 12:45
  • Welcome to Bicycles! Our goal as a Q/A site (rather than an typical forum) is to have detailed and relevant answers to fairly specific questions. Your answer has been flagged as "Not an Answer" or is getting downvoted by the community because it either doesn't answer the question, or doesn't add valuable information given the answers that already exist. Please see the Tour for an overview of how this and other Stack Exchange sites work. Answers like this will often be deleted or converted to comments, but we hope you will stick around, become an active user and contribute to the site. – Gary.Ray Jun 1 at 18:10

Your Answer

By clicking “Post Your Answer”, you agree to our terms of service, privacy policy and cookie policy

Not the answer you're looking for? Browse other questions tagged or ask your own question.