This is a little bit of a two-layered question.
The literal answer is yes. Given no gap adjustability, if your priority was to avoid rub, a hydraulic brake would be more susceptible to having rub, or more difficult to set up without it, for any given amount of rotor misalignment.
What makes it more complex is that you usually also have the priority of having it be a good brake. Hydraulic brakes transfer power from the lever more efficiently, so for a given amount of braking power output they can have a wider gap. (In terms of their design versus a mechanical.) This is a subtle point because we're not talking about a much bigger gap, maybe not even appreciably, but it's true that it being hydraulic at least moves the needle in that direction.
Mechanical brakes with their pad adjusters and barrel adjusters don't really free you from having to keep the rotor just about as true as true as with a hydro. With most of them, if you back out the adjusters much at all to compensate for rotor warp, the lever is going to be hitting the bar and you won't have much of a brake. It is true that in some cases you are able to adjust the brake in response to slight misalignment and still have it work, albeit with that much more imminence of the lever bottoming.
Different brakes, both cable and hydraulic, also have some variance in how much leverage they employ. The more leverage, the narrower the gap but the more power is generated. The less leverage, the wider of a gap (rotor truth tolerance) you have, but less hard the rotor winds up getting squeezed. There are also various systems that change the leverage (aka mechanical advantage) of the system at different points of the brake lever stroke and/or armature travel.
There are some mechanical disc calipers that are very gappy and tolerant of poor rotor truth, but they're not good brakes. I believe the department store disc brakes are tending to play this trick these days.