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My ozone 500 ultra shock mountain bike suspension is very stiff how can I make it looser I've tried oil ,wd-40 ,and other things please help me my bike is so bouncy

  • You can, in theory, adjust the threaded ring just forward of the spring on the rear to make it harder or softer. The practical adjustment range is, however, quite limited. There is probably no adjustment for the front. – Daniel R Hicks Jun 3 '17 at 22:26
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    Your bike has a quill stem - its not exactly "ultra" anything sorry. – Criggie Jun 3 '17 at 23:23
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    Leave it out in the rain for a day - the shocks will cease with rust and solve the problem. – mattnz Jun 3 '17 at 23:33
  • @mattnz "seize" then they cease to move. – Criggie Aug 1 '17 at 7:55
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This is a .

enter image description here

The suspension is there just for looks, not for actually doing anything useful, and you don't really have adjustment on it, or the ability to lock it out. That is, you can't do anything. In your case, you want to make the suspension stiffer not looser to reduce the bouncy-ness. That is, if the suspension was fixed, it wouldn't bounce so much.

In general, suspension costs money to do well. You're looking at ~400-500 USD for bicycles with basic servicable suspension forks, and ~1500+ USD for bikes with acceptable full supsension.

Decent suspension forks will have some adjustability, and possibly the ability to lock out (i.e. act like a rigid fork). Rear suspension systems of the coil type need a different coil (with a larger spring constant for more rigidity) to adjust significantly. Other types have other adjustments.

Note that for riding on the road, you don't really need suspension (for comfort, larger tires are often a better choice). And the suspension on your BSO won't really cope with any non-trivial rough stuff off road (note that these bikes are sold typically with stickers saying not to use them off road).

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I've successfully replacing the rear spring on a bike like this with a suitable length of pipe. That stiffened the rear quite well, but added more weight. From memory I used a suitable diameter of steam pipe that was laying about in the shed. Sadly I don't have photos.

The other option is to replace the whole shock assembly with something strong, and drill a bolt hole in either end.

Downside is there's a lot of forces in this area while riding, and its not something you want to have let-go suddenly. DO NOT USE WOOD! except perhaps for a very temporary test template.

I'd look for some strong steel pipe/tube that is the same width as the larger fitting and cut it with a grinder/cutoff wheel. A hacksaw is possible but if you can cut this pipe in under 20 minutes with a hacksaw then its probably too weak for the task.

Then you want a short length of crush tube inside the pipe. This reinforces the area where the bolt goes. No reason you couldn't use square tube like this, instead of pipe.

enter image description here

At the other end you probably have a smaller fitment for the shock, so you're looking at flattening your pipe/tube/stock to fit.

You may want to galvanise the piece, but that's costly. At least deburr and file it smooth, then a couple coats of cold zinc galv spray paint. Optionally top-coat with a colour that complements your bike's paint then clearcoat for durability. Personally I'd paint it flat black after zincing.

Finally - consider that this will lock the frame size. If you want an effectively smaller frame, then use a shorter length to replace the shock. If you want to make your bike effectively taller, use a slightly longer length (but consider that longer needs more overall strength.)

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