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This is occurring on my Avanti Discovery 8, which is a hybrid bike with an in-hub 8 speed.

Problem is I seem to be applying so much torque it's pulling the rear wheel forward in the frame, loosening the chain. I've tightened the rear nuts as hard as I can - to the point where the nuts got a little damaged (hex edges started to 'flatten' inside the spanner) - but the wheel keeps moving forward as soon as I go up a hill and apply pressure. You can even see the scrape marks where the nut and washer has been digging into the frame and being pulled forward.

Is there any solution to stop this?

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  • Although the linked question is about a fixie's problem, the solution of a "chain tug" applies to internally geared hubs as well. – RoboKaren Jul 25 '17 at 0:18
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    Replace your read hub nuts/washers with new ones - they will have more "bite" into the frame. – Criggie♦ Jul 25 '17 at 1:29
  • Is it possible that the nuts and washers have been replaced at one time by standard hardware store parts? The washers should have a serrated surface where they make contact with the drop-outs. – Carel Jul 25 '17 at 16:26
  • @Carel No, I don't think so. The washers do have a serrated surface and the nuts are the chromed acorn type. – MeltingDog Jul 25 '17 at 22:24
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Take a look at something like this:

http://surlybikes.com/parts/small_parts/monkey_nuts

Edit: this may me more along the lines of what you're looking for

http://surlybikes.com/parts/small_parts/tuggnut

I'm sure other brands make similar things.

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  • I use a Tuggnut on my Surly Steamroller to address the exact same issue and it's worked a treat. Although if you run fixed and you like to skid occasionally it won't stop the wheel slipping back in the dropouts if your wheelnuts aren't tight enough - it will stop the wheel pulling forward under torque though. – Drew Jul 27 '17 at 12:06
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I ended up "reshaping" or "resharpening" the ridges on my acorn nut, using a triangular rats-tail file. It took ages and was not a good use of my time, but cost nothing. This effectively allowed the right-hand side of the skewer to bite harder into the frame.

Tuggnuts are the correct solution though, as per @Booker's answer.

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