A decent chain should last 5000-6000 km (I previously said 4000km but now I have 4900 km on Shimano CN-HG54 and it's not past 0.5% limit). I suspect either of two problems is causing seemingly accelerated chain wear.
The first possibility is that you are using an inaccurate chain wear measuring tool. The only accurate ones (apart from a ruler at least foot and 1/16" inches long) are Shimano TL-CN40, Shimano TL-CN41, Shimano TL-CN42 and Park Tool CC-4. These are go/no-go gauges, the Shimano ones measure only one wear level (I recently measured Shimano TL-CN41 with a vernier caliper and can confirm it's measuring 0.5% wear level) and Park CC-4 measures both 0.5% and 0.75%.
It is possible for example that your 0.75% wear tool would tell a certain brand of chain is 0.74% worn when new. These things happen because most tools measure not only pin wear but also roller clearance. If the tool is a go/no-go gauge that measures roller clearance in addition to pin wear, you have no way of distinguishing 0.74% from 0%. Thus, it is possible the chain was worn 0.01% as opposed to 0.75% because it would have read 0.74% when new.
Use the Shimano tools or Park Tool CC-4 (other Park Tool measurement tools are junk), and these problems go away.
The second possibility is that you are causing the chain to attract dirt by repeatedly oiling it. The rule of thumb is that you must never oil a chain that already has oil unless you clean it completely. Your kerosene / citrus degreaser brushing may or may not be thorough enough to get all existing oil and dirt out. However, I'm certain that your re-oiling every evening is something that happens to a dirty and oily chain. You should remove this re-oiling of a dirty and oily chain.
The best way to oil chains is to remove it from the bike and clean it thoroughly. Then oil it. However, it takes a lot of time so a good approximation is to ride until the chain barely starts to squeak (meaning it has practically no oil inside and thus practically no dirt as the oil holds the dirt in). Then remove external dirt by careful brushing and oil the chain, putting the oil over the chain rollers. You may have noticed that in a chain that has seen lots of use and is practically clean of oil, the rollers are shiny clean. There's absolutely no dirt in the rollers since they are naturally cleaned. If you put the oil over the rollers, it gets to inside of the rollers and between chain inner plate half-bushings and chain pins, where it is needed to do its job. So practically no dirt will be carried along with the lubricant to the chain innards.
Also, after oiling you must remove excess oil. If you forget this, the oil attracts dirt and you will wear your chain in no time.
You also could be using an incorrect type of oil. The proper type of oil is thixotropic motorcycle chain spray. Don't even consider most bicycle chain oils, they are junk (with maybe Rex Black Diamond as an exception according to tests made by Zero Friction Cycling if you don't consider its fluorocarbon content problematic). The thixotropic stuff when agitated and sprayed becomes thin, and when left to settle becomes thick again. This means that when you apply it, some of it penetrates to the innards of the chain and some cover the outside of the chain. Then you wait for a while and remove excess oil from the outside of the chain. The oil that reached the innards stays there because it was left to settle and became thick due to its thixotropy.
I'm over 105 kg and ride a mid-drive 50Nm e-bike. Rumor says that mid-drive e-bikes wear chains really fast but I have about 5000 km on Shimano CN-HG54 and the chain isn't even 0.5% worn.
Also, it may make sense to buy more expensive chains since they are made from a better quality of steel, increasing chain lifetime. On Amazon, the KMC Z410 costs less than half of what a decent chain such as Shimano CN-6701 would cost. This may mean it uses poor quality steel. At least Shimano's CN-HG40 wear exceptionally fast according to tests. I think the keyword to look for in a chain is that its pins are "chrome hardened".