Leaving a pedal in a cross threaded state

Question

I have a Kona Jake (specs here) with Shimano M520 pedals and I noticed that one of my pedals wasn't quite all the trough the crank arm compared to the other pedal, see images below:

The difference isn't much but I tried to tighten and then tried to remove the pedal (2nd image) but found it stuck. Nearest I can tell, it's either cross threaded or some type of galvanized bonding took place. However, my gut is leaning toward cross threading as I did use an anti-seize compound (Park Tool ASC-1) before originally installing the pedals.

My question is not on how to remove the pedal but the dangers or complications I might encounter if I leave the pedal as is. Please note, I don't have the problem with the pedal placement nor is there any play or free movement in the pedal at all. And I am worried about prematurly damaging the crank arms if I force the pedal out.

It's also important to note that the pedals have been installed for just over a year at this point. Also, when trying to remove the pedal I used a filzer pedal tool but didn't use penetraiting oil or anything like that.

So again, what are the dangers or complications I could encounter if I leave the pedal in it's current state?

Thank you kindly,

Answer 1

At this point the damage is done and the only options are to leave it as is or remove the pedal and heli-coil the crank arm. There are a few scenarios that can play out in this situation. The worst case is the pedal backs out unexpectedly, you loose control, crash and get hurt. I would think this unlikely as it has been like this for a year. I would use some Loctite 290 applied to the exposed end of the pedal axle. This type of product is a wicking compound. It will travel down the threads of the mounted pedal and lock it in place. If you are lucky the pedal won't back-out and it won't be an issue until the pedal or crank needs replacement. At that point the pedal threads are likely destroyed. If you decide to heli-coil the crank arm you could do it yourself, how ever the cost of the drill,tap and coils make it an expensive repair. It is likely more cost effective to have a local shop handle it.

Answer 2

Probably not the answer, but its possible your pedal threads are simply different lengths, or that your cranks are slightly different thicknesses.

There may even be a washer on one side but not on the other side - think of TA cranks which required the washer else they would split over time.

TESTING

When you ride, does the "bad" pedal corkscrew around under your foot? Or is the pedal completely flat and normal feeling? If its the latter, you just have a tight pedal, if its the former then its definitely cross threadded.