I have a Surly Troll with rear facing horizontal fork ends.

  1. Is there a recommended way of installing a Rohloff Speedhub 14 on the Surly Troll? These answers mention tugnuts and washers, but perhaps Rohloff have their own adapter for this type of bicycle / fork end.

  2. Or perhaps the Surly Troll with these fork ends wasn't made for an IGH?

Pictures of the fork ends (this is a pre 2017 Surly Troll):

enter image description here enter image description here

  • The torque anchor is only used to keep the inner body of the hub from rotating. This has to do with the internal workings of the It isn't meant to keep the axle in position. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rohloff_Speedhub – Carel Aug 23 '18 at 10:59

The derailleur arm corrects the chain tension with its spring-loaded mechanism. With an IGH you'll need to adjust the tension by moving the wheel as well as the brake to keep it on the disk. In your configuration the axle sits tight against the end of the slot and chain-pull will not misalign the wheel.

With an IGH the axle is only anchored through compression of the QR on the dropouts which may easily be too slight and allow the axle slide forward on a very hard pedal push. A tugnut will avoid that situation.

Edit: Reading into the manual, I just found that it is possible to use the Rohloff in the same manner as a bike with a rear derailleur. You just need their own chain tensionner in place of the RD. It eliminates the need for moving the wheel and the brake. Chain tension is adjusted once and for all with the axle sitting in the full forward position of the slot.


This is the answer I received from Rohloff customer support


Built of 4130 CroMoly steel, the Troll is designed as a comfortable off-road MTB/tourer. The frame feature gusseted sloping toptubes, Surly Trip Guides for running full shift and brake housing, mounts for linear-pull and disc brakes plus ample room between the stays for high-volume rubber…up to 2.75"!

The Troll’s…rear load horizontals feature a derailleur hanger, slotted disc brake mounts, M10 x 1mm threaded holes for mounting the Surly Bill & Ted trailer via connecting hardware (or B.O.B. Nutz), and a dedicated anchoring point for a Rohloff OEM2 axleplate. Surly designed a ton of versatility into these framesets because they wanted you to build a bike the way it will best serve you. Framesets available in sizes XS, S, M, L and XL.

The Troll, requires:

Disc brake use:

TS DB OEM2 SPEEDHUB + special 4-bolt brake rotor + spokes with a 2.9mm neck length.

Rim Brake use:

TS EX OEM2 SPEEDHUB + spokes with a 2.9mm neck length.

The OEM2 anchoring bolt is positioned in the additional horizontal dropout slot as illustrated above.


2017+ Troll models will in addition, require the Surly '10/12 washers' to convert their 145mm 'Not-Boost' dropout system back to 135x10mm standard.

And this is the answer from Surly customer support

... Troll’s rear dropout actually features a dedicated Rohloff torque arm slot. Our recommended set up is the OEM2 axle plate and the a Speedhub that uses the “TS” (bolt-on) axle paired with our 10/12mm adapters (below) to allow the axle to sit snugly in the Troll’s 12mm Gnot Boost dropout. You can also get one of our Snuggnuts if you are concerned about the wheel slipping, but most of the time, the bolt on axle is sufficient. enter image description here

  • 2
    +1 for following up and posting answers from Rohloff and Surly. Nice that Surly built in the torque arm slot - you should get a nice clean build. – Argenti Apparatus Aug 26 '18 at 15:49

This article shows that it's possible. The Rohloff user manual also mentions horizontal dropouts.

A mounting adapter would not be necessary. With horizontal dropouts you won't be able to remove the rear wheel easily, so you would use the threaded axle version of the hub rather than the quick release version. Tugnuts should not be necessary unless you want to use them to make setting chain tension and wheel alignment easier.

All you need to do is figure out which torque anchor to use, I think the post mount anchor might work on the Troll, otherwise the standard anchor with the torque arm.

  • Why will I not be able to remove the rear wheel? What about replacing the tube / tyre, or packaging the bicycle for transport? How hard (in terms of time, skills, tools) is it to take the rear wheel off and then put it back on? – user53784 Aug 23 '18 at 8:33
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    @user53784 Poor wording on my part (answering late at night). But basically because the chain won't let the wheel slide back in the dropouts you will not be able to remove the rear wheel easily. If you can get enough slack by moving the wheel forward to get the chain off the sprocket you'll be OK. – Argenti Apparatus Aug 23 '18 at 12:24
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    A re-usable quick link might ease wheel removal. Although it's a bit messy to open at the side of the road. – Carel Aug 24 '18 at 7:58

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