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After shearing the head off a screw still in my bike I've decided to get proper anti-seize. I have an aluminum frame and stainless steel screws. I've heard that zinc based anti-seize is better for aluminum-steel connections. I've also heard though that the additives in the compound only really make a difference at high temperatures which are not reached on a bike.

Aluminum based anti-seize is often 4-5 times cheaper than zinc based anti-seize and much more common. Is there really any performance difference between the two in this case? Alternatively, would a "marine-grade" anti-seize without metal additives be better than either of these cases?

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    I suspect any anti seize is better than none. Personally I have copper-clay for its water-resisting properties, and 1 kilo will last me about 50 years. – Criggie Oct 19 '18 at 2:46
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    I just use white lithium grease. Seems to work well enough for me. I suspect you won't see much if any difference in performance given the conditions on most bicycles. It's not like you're going to need full marine-grade "it'll be immersed in salt water for 20 years" performance. – Andrew Henle Oct 19 '18 at 11:11
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    I prefer the old standards of graphite or moly sulfide. Aluminum metal is the worst for seizing , so something should be used. – blacksmith37 Oct 19 '18 at 16:12
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I've done a great amount of testing and investigating bicycle bearing greases and anti-seize pastes. My conclusion, opinion and experience is that for bicycles, any anti-seize will do. Relatively low pressures and temperatures don't create serious challenge for the anti-seize.

My first choice is kaolin and titanium oxide based anti seize, since it is white (doesn't look like rust to bike shop customers, so less explaining if some is left visible) and very easy to wipe off the places where it isn't needed. The one I use is Famol PT, but look for a locally distributed/manufactured version. Or use any other anti-seize.

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    Excellent answer - thank you for all that work. – Criggie Oct 23 '18 at 19:04

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