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I bought a pair of second-hand wheels, and after removing cassette noticed these notches on the freehub. Is the freehub still in OK condition?

enter image description here

  • 1
    You can also just use hubs that have steel or titanium freehubs. White Industries uses titanium, and last I looked, all Shimano hubs use steel freehubs with Dura Ace hubs using titanium ones. For stronger or heavier riders, or wheels that get a lot of use, steel or titanium freehubs will last a lot longer. – Andrew Henle Feb 6 at 14:52
  • Maybe the reason why these wheels have been sold! – Carel Feb 6 at 15:06
  • @Carel nah, I bought complete bike with these wheels for decent price. All the rest with the bike is absolutely fine. – Vladyslav K Feb 6 at 15:09
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The bumps on the freehub splines are caused by steel cogs on the cassette digging into the softer aluminum metal on the freehub.

You can use a file and file down the ridges, once, maybe twice without affecting performance too much, but eventually you will want to purchase a new freehub.

Depending on your needs, you can purchase a steel freehub and this issue shouldn't be a problem.

  • Just out of curiosity: where would you get a steel freehub body to this particular hub? – ojs Feb 4 at 17:56
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    Easton is a very well known brand and I suspect your LBS should be able to order the correct freehub for you. Last freehub I ordered was different for road vs MTB and you'll want to make sure the new freehub works for your drivetrain – Glenn Gervais Feb 4 at 19:04
  • @ojs found it bike-discount.de/en/buy/… – Vladyslav K Feb 6 at 16:43
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I have exactly the same problem on an aluminum freehub after using a cassette supposedly installed with lockring's torque not high enough:

my eaten freehub

A proper prevention measure would be using a fully steel freehub body or at least a freehub with steel ribs similar to these below, in addition to torquing the lockring properly:

anti bite guard

A new steel hub body, however, may be expensive or unavailable. In my case, it is ~95 € for a new steel hub body vs ~66 € for an aluminum one.

A corrective measure after the problem was discovered was described to me on another bike forum. It is as follows: find a source of thin steel pins. They should be thin and long enough to be able to wedge them in between the cassette and the hub body so that they become a makeshift anti-bite guard splines.

One possible source for such pins are stapler pins, separated and straightened:

stapler pins

Another potential source of steel ribs suggested to me were springs coming with QR-skewers; to straighten, cut and use them.

The suggestion with pins sounds reasonable to me, although I cannot yet comment on its efficiency and longevity. It may not apply to all cases as there may be not much space between the cassette and the hub splines to wedge things in.

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    Not so sure about staples, they are really, really soft steel. – Gabriel C. Feb 4 at 19:21
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    @GabrielC.Yes, but easy to replace and very cheap. Also, much easier/cheaper to replace than the hub itself. – Tyzoid Feb 4 at 22:30
  • @GabrielC. And you can always temper it by heating in the stove and quench it in water. – dmb Feb 5 at 16:39
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    supposedly installed with lockring's torque not high enough Lockring torque isn't going to matter at all. If the casette has individual cogs, there's no mechanism to transfer force from one cog to the next to distribute the force, like there is for casettes that put multiple cogs on a carrier. – Andrew Henle Feb 6 at 14:45
  • @AndrewHenle : From the picture it seems that the large ones are one block, the 5 smaller ones are individual cogs. OP may try to find a cassette that has all cogs on one carrier but unfortunately all new 10 and 11-speed cassettes by Shimano are built that way. I don't know about the build of Sram cassettes that are also compatible but I'd suggest to have a look at those. – Carel Feb 6 at 15:01

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