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I just installed this kickstand on a bicycle with a kickstand plate. The kickstand plate has raised edges at the sides, but the mounting part of the kickstand is a bit smaller. As a result, the kickstand can shift slightly in relation to the centerline of the bike. When it shifts out, the crank arm hits the kickstand while I pedal:

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Is there some way to fix the angle of the kickstand mount, either using some kind of shim or just cranking down really hard on the mounting bolt? Or should I get a different kickstand?

The bike has an aluminium frame.

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    Just leave the kickstand away, it's heavy and a potential source of trouble. And ff the frame is anything else than steel then anyway.especially if you want to over-tighten the bolt as you suggest. There are plenty of trees, posts, fences etc. – Carel May 13 at 20:33
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    Can you tighten the mounting bolt more? A large crinkle-washer between frame and stand may help, or cut some shims out of aluminium can. Do use lots of grease to isolate steel from aluminium though. – Criggie May 13 at 20:58
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    It's an aluminum frame. I've just hand-tightened it so far. – Jared May 13 at 23:48
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    @Carel that's thoroughly unhelpful. You don't know why the OP wants one in the first place. Have you ever tried lifting a child into a rear seat with no kickstand? Even on my tourer I miss the kickstand every time I use it for commuting. – Chris H May 14 at 5:59
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    @AndrewHenle I have a double kickstand for that reason. It's locked off solid as described in my answer, but anyway the double is much more secure. And the word only was yours not mine - it's not true for me. If you're interested the process is roughly: stand bike on kickstand. Lift child into seat, put down without letting go. Keep arms round child & fasten seatbelt. Move one hand to saddle. Lift handlebars, kick away stand. Get on, ride off. That's worked well for 5 years now - the one time I did it with no stand was a struggle involving standing over the top tube and twsting badly – Chris H May 14 at 13:24
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Kickstands are fiddly, and things tend to move unless really locked off. It's possible the bolt is loosening and the plate movement is the first symptom of loosening. To stop my bolt loosening, after adjusting everything to my liking I added a jam nut (a nut tightened against the already threaded part). This happens to be a self locking nut as that's what I had in the right size. This is on a double kickstand similar to the one in the question.

Mine also came with a thin rubber pad to go under this plate. That helped, but when it broke I used a piece of inner tube cut to fit, which worked just as well.

Some of these plates are thicker, actually cast into a shape that should settle evenly across the chainstays. You could emulate this by attaching (probably gluing) a piece of plastic or aluminium to the plate, so that it sits between the chainstays. It would only need to be a few mm thick (around 1/4 inch) to prevent movement but would need to be nicely shaped and firmly fastened

  • The bolt goes into a closed tube in the kickstand, so I don't think there's anywhere to add a jam nut. I was thinking of gluing something like a nail in there? – Jared May 14 at 16:20
  • I'm curious whether a rubber pad, steel crinkle-washer, or aluminum can shim would be most secure in this instance? – Jared May 14 at 16:23
  • I don't think a shim that thin would do anything. The crinkle washer and rubber pad are different - the pad is to stop the plate slipping on the frame while the washer is to stop the bolt loosening. If you can degrease everything thoroughly you might get somewhere with threadlocker. Mine is subject to some unusual forces where I lock up, and the threads are quite loose, so threadlocker tends not to last, but your situation might be different – Chris H May 14 at 16:29
  • Ah okay, thanks for the explanation. Is there a point in using both a crinkle washer and a rubber pad then? – Jared May 14 at 16:44
  • It's certainly worth a try – Chris H May 14 at 18:42

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