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I'm building a new bike using a Deore T6000 front derailleur with Microshift BS-M10 bar end shifters. I'm having trouble getting the derailleur to shift the whole necessary range and am looking for suggestions before I take it into a mechanic. The H limit screw isn't stopping the travel, since I can pull on the cable and have it shift to the large cog. I've read that if I can pull the cable and shift to the larger cog, the cable is too loose, but if I re-tension the cable with either a frame barrel adjuster or by pulling the cable, I may be able to shift to the outer cog, but the shifter cable prevents the derailleur from hitting the L screw and I can't shift back down to the inner cog. I've also checked my derailleur height and angle and it doesn't seem to make a difference. The parts seem like they should be compatible, but now I'm starting to wonder. Any ideas?

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  • Note that the T6000 is for a triple front crankset and that there are 2 separate sub-models: either the top-swing (FD-T6000-L3) or the downswing model (FD-T6000- H3). The limit screws differ in their action depending of which sub-model you have. IOW: The outside limit screw is the high limit in top-swing but the low-limit screw if bottom swing. The shifter is compatible with Shimano mountain 10 speed. The left/front shifter is friction and handles either 2 or 3 chainrings. The T6000 front derailleur is triple only.
    – Jeff
    May 20, 2019 at 4:20
  • Here's the dealers manual for the FD-T6000 (Both sub-models are covered): si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-TRFD001-01-ENG.pdf
    – Jeff
    May 20, 2019 at 4:23
  • I actually have an FD-T6000-L6. I couldn't really tell what the difference was vs the L3, but the front derailleur screws are labeled, so I'm not confusing them. I've looked at the manual and went through the Park Tool video and article and haven't had any luck.
    – saiyr
    May 20, 2019 at 5:46
  • Have you ruled out any tight bends in your cable routing causing issues?
    – Andy P
    May 20, 2019 at 11:19

2 Answers 2

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With the cable detached, chain on largest sprocket, set the low limit with the absolute minimum clearance from the chain. With the shifter firmly at the lowest setting (max cable payed out) attach the cable and use barrel adjusters to take any slack out so that movement of the shifter results in immediate movement of the derailleur cage. That should make sure the shifter can pull the cage far enough outboard to get over the big ring.

You may need to adjust derailleur alignment so that the tail end of the cage is toed out slightly to get it to kick the chain into the big ring.

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  • Another check is if the cable is routed properly. Especially important is at the pinch bolt (cable fixing bolt) that the leverage tab of the washer is facing up in your case.
    – Jeff
    May 20, 2019 at 18:56
  • I have tried this (perhaps incorrectly) a few times to no avail. Bye toed out, do you mean wider than parallel to the cog? @Jeff: I'm not sure how it should look, but I have how the cable is fed into the pinch bolt here: imgur.com/8bZzqaj I do recall it rotating when I unscrewed it, so I guess it could be in the wrong direction. There aren't many other ways to route the shifter cable on this frame, but I could be doing something silly. I don't have any tight bends beyond at the derailleur.
    – saiyr
    May 21, 2019 at 0:17
  • @saiyr Instead of the cage being parallel to the chainring, the back end needs to be slightly outboard. Another way of saying it is the derailleur is rotated anticlockwise slightly, looking down the seatpost
    – Argenti Apparatus
    May 21, 2019 at 0:21
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I took my bike to a shop and we discovered that the bar end shifter had been mis-assembled, because I let it come apart when I took it out of the box. This caused the shifter to not have enough throw to shift to the outer cog. I would advise anyone buying bar end shifters to be careful when handling them out of the box. Unfortunately, I don't know my part names well enough, but there is at least one washer-like piece that has to be oriented properly, otherwise the shifter won't have the correct throw. I believe a clue that this has happened is if one of the shifters doesn't reach the same height (physically on the bicycle) when they are on the largest chainring/rear cog.

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  • Good! I reckon you might be able to save someone else the trouble by adding some more information to your answer. Did the shifter come apart because it is prone to do it? Or did you accidentally do something you shouldn't have done? Was it new or 2nd hand?
    – pateksan
    May 23, 2019 at 22:00
  • In hindsight, were there any signs hinting that you misassembled it? I mean sounds, resistance etc?
    – pateksan
    May 23, 2019 at 22:22
  • @pateksan my only guess at a sign would be that the front shifter shifted as far as possible still was in a significantly lower position than the rear shifter shifted to the largest gear. I added it to my answer. There was no clue in sound that I know of, and I'm not experienced enough to tell from resistance or anything else.
    – saiyr
    May 24, 2019 at 22:25

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