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I just went back to a Shimano chain. For emergencies, rather than using a missing link, I considered just bringing a couple of unused links and a replacement pin. However, I don't want to carry a pair of pliers.

I have a Crankbrothers M19 tool set. I think I might be able to use the #3 spoke wrench on the chain breaker to add a little bit of leverage but not much. I might also be able to just use the end of the chain breaker but the opening is fairly large. Anybody have any thoughts of how to snap the pin without pliers?

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    I think you should just carry the quicklink – Paul H Jun 11 at 16:06
  • Definitely something I'm prepared to do ;). That said, my last experience with a quick link was not great. Darn thing kept falling off as I tried to put some pressure on the peddle to lock it in. I've hardly ever broke a chain, but it really sucks when it happens, it's dark, the mosquitoes are biting, and you've got to spend another 10 minutes trying to get back on the trail. – b_levitt Jun 11 at 16:15
  • hmm, they can be a little tricky, but it almost sounds like you were using too narrow of a quicklink. – Paul H Jun 11 at 21:13
  • @PaulH...just as a follow up, i dug out the old chain, found the quicklink, and sure enough discovered it said "10s" on it when I was using a 9 speed chain. Honestly I'm glad it was too dark that night to see it... I would have not bothered trying and would have had a very long walk home. – b_levitt Aug 14 at 19:28
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A quick-link type product is probably the fastest, easiest, and lightest option to repair a chain on the roadside. I personally have not had any trouble, including excess noise, when using SRAM's or KMC's quick link product on my 9 speed Shimano chains.

To specifically answer your question, use a couple of hex keys that are next to each other on the tool. Unfold the pair so that one key is straight out, the second just short of straight out. You now have the two keys forming a narrow "Y" shape. You'd use this to snap off the leading pin by placing the fully extended key underneath the pin right at the score of the breakpoint. Position the angled hex key on top just outside the line of the under-key. Wedge the pin firmly--scissor-like--maintaining the hex keys relative positions of under the break point and on top & outside of the line of the under-pin key. Grip firmly and twist the system such that the wedged pin is levered around the bottom key--and at the pin's break point. Wedge, twist, snap.

  • That definitely sounds like an option. I will experiment with this shortly. Yes, I will probably still get some more quick links, but I still wanted to test the theory of this. – b_levitt Jun 11 at 17:30
  • I just looked at some online pics of the M19. One could same technique I described utilizing that arch near the chain tool. Pin the pin within the arch with one of the hex or torque keys located behind the arch and rotate the whole tool around that point. Should be plenty enough leverage if the pin will stay wedged – Jeff Jun 11 at 17:37

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