When I apply the front brake I can feel a "shudder" or "pulse" through the front wheel, fork and handlebars. It's faster when I'm travelling faster and slower when I'm moving slower.

I assume there's something wrong with the rim, causing the brake pads to catch (rim braking, not discs). But I've checked the rim carefully and can't see anything. There isn't any ledges and I can't see that parts of the rim are wider than other parts (although I haven't checked with calipers or anything since I don't have any). It's happened since the wheels were new. They're Charge Dish wheels. I've used multiple different brake pads and they have all had this problem (to varying degrees).

How can I diagnose and fix this problem?

Updates based on comments:

  • The bike is an SE Lager, about 18 months old. I'm running Conti GP4000S 23mm tyres.
  • I've spun the wheel and eyeballed the rim/pad clearance. I can't see any noticeable bulge, but I'm assuming that's what's causing the problem.
  • It's a large frame (I'm 6'3")

Thanks for the suggestions. If there is a bulge in the rim can I fix it, or do I need to replace it?

  • 1
    I guess you must angle the pads such that the back/tail/heel of the pad touches slightly before the front.
    – ChrisW
    Sep 28, 2011 at 2:53
  • 1
    What kind of frame/fork and what is the size of the bike? In addition to a loose headset, I have seen this kind of thing happen on some older steel frames and sometimes on larger frame sizes.
    – user2491
    Sep 28, 2011 at 11:41
  • 1
    Remember to check for in/out as well as side-to-side. Moving in/out changes the apparent width of the rim, and also, if the rim moves "in" too much the tire can rub against the brake pads. Sep 29, 2011 at 1:20

12 Answers 12


By your description, it totally seems to be some slight irregularity on rim surface, be it a bent spot, some fluctuation around valve-hole or seam, or some slight variation on total width.

I had the exact problem you described three times: after hitting a pothole too hard once, and after my bike fell off a moving car's bike rack thereafter.

Both times, it was some rim irregularity, and it was on the same rim. First time, I kept riding and the very rim wearing out with braking eventually solved the problem. Second time, I had to put a new rim, because the "pulse" was very intense and dangerous (fork flexing and all).

The third time I had this problem, I had a defective rim which eventually cracked on the side, and I felt a progressive worsening of this "pulse".


I noticed this irregularity caused an assymmetric MONLIGHT REFLECTION because I was riding at night, leaned the bike to the side, and was marevelled by the beautiful circle of moonlight on the shiny breaking surface of the rim. But there was a bent spot, pretty much invisible to direct observation.

So, I propose you go with your bike close to a shadowed wall on a very sunny day, and use the braking surface of the rim to reflect sunlight on this shadowed wall, optionally letting the wheel turn slowly, and repeating the procedure with the other side of the rim.

For sure, if there is a bent spot, the slightest one, you will see it.

You can increase the distance to the wall to make the effect more obvious, and you should expect some natural assymmetry. The "abnormal" thing to watch would be a very localized spot of aberrant light distrtibution.

EDIT: suppose you found the micro-bent spot, a good way to wear it away is to put not-so-expensive brake pads, go to your favourite muddy downhill track in a wet day (preferrably one where the weels completely sink in the mud), and use the brakes mercyless. Your rim will begin to shine!! (pun intended ;o)

Hope it helps!

(well, you could always turn the bike upside down, spin the wheel, close your eyes, and literally feel variations on rim surface with your bare fingers. It is not so sensitive as the sunlight method. Do it with caution!)

  • Very interesting! The rims are matt so not super reflective but I'll definitely try this on the next sunny day. Apart from letting the brakes wear down any bulge, is there any way of fixing it? Or should I just replace the rim?
    – Mac
    Sep 29, 2011 at 0:56
  • 1
    You can also hold something (a pencil is good) against the fork (or tied to it with a rubber band) as you spin the wheel, with the tip of the pencil as close as you can make it without touching the wheel. This lets you see small variations in spacing. Sep 29, 2011 at 2:54
  • @Mac: I used to tap irregularities down using a thick wood stick and a hammer, but usually it does not work so well. If you are patient, you can use sandpaper, but you said your rims are MATTE! Look at my edit... Sep 29, 2011 at 13:42

As Jason S said it could be your headset. Engage the front brake while standing by your bike and try to move your bike forwards and backwards. Do you feel play in the front end then? If so it's likely to be the headset.

  • 1
    The pulse varies "speed" along with the bike, so it seems it is a periodical pulse unrelated to the act of braking, but to wheel spin WHILE braking. Sep 28, 2011 at 14:08
  • This is definitely worth a check before toe-ing in the brakes and it does get worse at speed if loose headset-related. Sep 29, 2011 at 0:34
  • @JasonS they're rim brakes. No suspension.
    – Mac
    Sep 29, 2011 at 1:06
  • I tried as you suggested and don't see any play in the headset.
    – Mac
    Sep 29, 2011 at 1:06
  • @JasonS I could put my old wheels back on - good idea. It does seem to be one shudder/pulse per revolution. Any suggestions on what to do if it is the rim? Any way to repair it?
    – Mac
    Sep 29, 2011 at 5:38

Another potential explanation is the oscillating change in brake cable tension during braking.

This problem is more common on big frames. I'm 6'4" and I've experienced this on several bikes. Cantilever brakes can exaggerate this issue.

When you brake your fork is bending backwards in response to the force being placed on it. This can cause the cable tension to slacken slightly and the brake caliper to open causing a slip. This in turn allows the fork to return to normal and cable tension increases. Then this repeats.

On one bike I owned changing from a Avid shorty 6 to a wide Kore brake eliminated this problem. Using a more aggressive toe-in on the pads can help too.

Since your bike has a caliper brake you may want to make sure that your brake housing ferrels are still in good shape. Basically anything that might introduce slack into the braking system or subvert the compression resistance of the housing should be checked.

Good Luck!


Some general things to check for:

  • Wheels are true
  • Wheel brake surfaces are clean (I use some automotive brake cleaner on a rag and wipe them down if I accidentally get oil on them)
  • Brake pads have some pad left (make sure they aren't too worn)
  • Brake pads are angled slightly as they contact the rim

Sometimes I've also taken a metal file and rake it over the brake pad surface a bit to scuff them up. Not sure if that would help your situation though.

  • Good points. They're new pads and I've checked the other stuff you mention. I'm not sure how to check for 'absolute' trueness. I don't have a trueing stand. Maybe it's a trip to the LBS.
    – Mac
    Sep 29, 2011 at 1:06

I've seen this many times, almost always this will happen on the seam on the rim, opposite the valve hole, alternatively it's down to a wide spot through manufacturing error or more likely a wide bulge in the rim due to an impact at some point. the bulge often cannot be seen or even felt.

other reasons may be (as said above)an eggy wheel that is not round and so the braking surface effectively jumps up and down .

or that the blocks are not running on the braking surface - as they wear they can dive down under the braking surface sometimes

solutions offered depend on the reason, a bulge due to impact may be able to be pushed back in. an eggy wheel needs re-jigging so it's round.

but with the most common pulsing seam : 1 sand the bulge out with fine grit wet and dry paper or whatever. 2 try to lift or drop the blocks as the area which is affected may be slightly at the top or bottom of the barking surface and avoided by re- positioning them.

whatever the reason it's actually always a good idea to just try reversing the front wheel in the forks as the rim may catch more running one way than the other (particularly if the seam is 'stepped' and you're hitting that step. )

if it's canti shudder alone then v brakes or a fork mounted (swan neck) cable stop like tektro 1277a will eliminate that.

  • Is it wise to sand the rim? That sounds like it would create a weak spot, whose failure, especially on a front wheel, could be catastrophic. Sep 20, 2017 at 12:32

I experienced this on a large frame Cannondale T700. I isolated the pulse spot and found an imperfect seam in the braking surface of the rim.

Doesn’t feel like much to touch but definitely makes a big difference when braking.

  • 1
    Fair point - you're saying to check the rim again because even a minor/invisible imperfection can cause issues. Perhaps try to isolate the exact spot on the rim where the pulse occurs, to narrow down on a cause.
    – Criggie
    Aug 21, 2019 at 7:36
  1. Check that the wheels are true.
  2. Like ChrisW mentioned, angle the pad slightly to make sure the brake pad doesn't touch the wheel all at once to have more leeway in the rim.
  • Do you have any ideas how to check for true wheels? I've eyeballed them and they look okay, but I figure I must be missing something. I have set the angle as you've described.
    – Mac
    Sep 29, 2011 at 1:05
  • @Mac: You can easily build an improvised trueing stand. Raise the bike a bit so the wheel runs free, spin the wheel and hold something pointy close to the rim. Watch how much the distance between rim and pointy thing changes. If you feel sciency, magnetize your rim and use a coil to measure the change in magnetic field for extra fun.
    – thiton
    Sep 29, 2011 at 6:37

My home made trueing stand consists of the bikes frame and nylon wire ties (zip tie). By attaching the wire tie to the fork or the seat stay it can be trimmed so it is about 1/4 inch longer than the gap between the wheel and frame. If you rotate the tie you can get it to just touch the wheel. Rotate the wheel and check the gap or deflection of the wire tie as the wheel rotates,if you set the tie so it is at the edge of the rim you can also check for an out of round condition.Of course trueing the wheel gets more involved.


I've serviced and restored many bikes and recently come across this problem. I stripped the V brakes down and found a large but thin washer on each arm, I replaced these with a slightly thicker ones from some spares I had. Everything was cleaned and greased (apart from the bolt/threads) and reassembled and the problem has gone. Lee

  • Your brake pads are wearing down with use, and need to be adjusted in. However this won't fix any pulsing. Instead the rim is probably irregular, and you're feeling it. Or the pads are so worn the brake arms are interfering with the tyre when closed.
    – Criggie
    Jun 17, 2019 at 20:49

Check the spokes tension (two spokes against each other at a time). If you find spokes with disgustingly uneven tension, it might make the wheel "wobble" when your weight is on it (even if the wheel is perfectly true when unloaded). If you found a spoke that is much tighter or much looser than the rest, then tighten or loosen it a bit and compensate on the surrounding spokes on the same side of the wheel. Make only small changes (a quarter of a turn up to a half of a turn).


It's actually your brake pads. I have the exact same problem. The pads are too soft and grabby such as top-end swiss stop bxp on alu rims. Change your pads to swiss stop black or dura ace alu pads - problem solved.

  • This problems arises in rim manufacture and occurs at the seam.
  • Measured difference either side of the seam can be 0.3 mm and causes a moderate pulsating effect on rim braking. A larger difference will be more pronounced.
  • For a MTB Sprung Fork, the fork will undergo excessive flex, noticeably bend under braking and wear prematurely.
  • A rim with otherwise minor runout can work and one solution is to use it on a hub / fork that supports a disk brake. Otherwise replace it.
  • Hi, welcome to bicycles. Do notes that OP checked the rim for "ledges" which would rule out an irregular weld.
    – DavidW
    Feb 14, 2023 at 1:47

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