I would like to upgrade this bike with a better and faster crankset, 52-36T, but I'm confused if my planned setup will be compatible with the bike I have. I have consulted in our local bike shop and they said that a Dura-Ace crank would fit but the FD will have a hard time or impossible fitting considering the top tube design of the bike.

I'm not really sure if he saw my bottom bracket being really old. Might there be any modern bottom bracket to fit it at all?

Edit: Finally found an enlightening link https://bike.bikegremlin.com/1297/bicycle-front-derailleur-compatibility/

Side View

Bottom View

  • 1
    are you going to use a full 11spd setup (cassette, rear mech, shifters) as well?
    – Paul H
    Commented Aug 1, 2019 at 16:33
  • 1x is all the rage now and you already have it.
    – ojs
    Commented Aug 1, 2019 at 19:10
  • 1
    @WashichawbachaW sounds like you'd be better suited with 1x11 MTB drivetrain
    – Paul H
    Commented Aug 2, 2019 at 14:55
  • 2
    I'm telling you that you don't want to mess with a front derailleur and a double crankset. If you have the resources to a new road or mountain bike whenever you want, you should should stop messing around and get a 1x XT or SLX group and a road/gravel 1x crankset to go with it.
    – Paul H
    Commented Aug 2, 2019 at 15:42
  • 2
    After reading the whole discussion my recommendation would be a power meter crankset. It's not going to make anyone faster, but it could help the OP to figure out why he keeps being passed.
    – ojs
    Commented Aug 5, 2019 at 15:48

3 Answers 3


If you want to fit a modern crank you'll need to be able to fit a compatible bottom bracket. Right now you have a threaded bottom bracket shell with a non-cartridge bottom bracket. If the threads are ISO/English standard and the width is standard threaded BB road width (68mm) then you can fit an external bearing road BB and road crank. The BB shell looks a bit wide though.

The other major issue is clearance between the chainstay and large chainrings that the frame was not designed for

  • Another issue will be the chainguard that will get in the way of larger and/or double rings and in the case of double rings also with the front derailleur..
    – Carel
    Commented Aug 1, 2019 at 19:57
  • @Carel I'm willing to remove my chain guard. I know it won't accommodate a larger chainring. Commented Aug 2, 2019 at 9:41
  • I just measured my BB width. I'm not sure if I'm getting it right but I got 70mm. Maybe it's that 68mm you're saying. Also, plenty of local stores I came to talk with, states that there's a compatible BB and dura-ace crank for my bike. The only problem now is the FD and also a MTB shifter compatible with it. Commented Aug 2, 2019 at 12:55
  • @WashichawbachaW I really think you should stick with a 1x MTB drivetrain. Then you don't have any issues with your derailleur and shifter compatibility, and you still get plenty of range (e.g., 46 x 11-46)
    – Paul H
    Commented Aug 2, 2019 at 14:57
  • 4
    If you can comfortably 'spin' a 50-12 on a road bike on the flat you should probably just give the bike to your team mechanic to sort out for you.
    – Andy P
    Commented Aug 5, 2019 at 11:56

Alternative answer - if you want more climbing gears, consider a wide-ranging Internally Geared Hub in your wheel. An 11 speed Shimano Alfine has 500% range, and a 14 speed Rohloff is also enormous.

This will return your bike to a vintage look, and do away with the entire derailleur system. You'll also be able to keep that chainguard, whereas fitting a front mech will require you to remove it completely, or worse butcher big holes into the metal.

Downside - these hubs are not cheap, and could easily cost more than your bike. Plus they need building into the middle of your rear wheel, and your bike frame needs some way to tension the chain, so longer dropouts, not modern vertical ones (though you can also use a chain tensioner in the same style as a rear deraileur)

  • 1
    that's really a good advise but Alfine and other Shimano's commuter series of components are not available in my country. If I order that outside the country, shipping cost will spike up the price compared to what is already available here. I'm ok taking off the chain guard. Commented Aug 7, 2019 at 6:31

After so many days searching the web, asking questions here and asking some local mechanics, I finally got an answer.

My bike can be fitted with modern Threaded Bottom Bracket and Dura-Ace Crankset. Chainstay clearance is ok. I will ditch the chain guard. As for the FD, if I can't fit it because of the top tube, I will just weld an adapter to it for a braze-on option.

The only problem now is the compatibility of the Dura-Ace road FD with XTR 2x MTB shifter. Base from this link https://bike.bikegremlin.com/1297/bicycle-front-derailleur-compatibility/, I'm willing to push this experiment for my ultimate sleeper bike. If it fails, it fails but I will find a way.

  • If you can - store the takeoff parts like the chain guard. Someday you or some future owner may want to revert to stock.
    – Criggie
    Commented Aug 7, 2019 at 7:17
  • @Criggie I have no plan of reselling my bike. I will do a complete overhaul of it. I hope I'll finish this project this year. Commented Aug 7, 2019 at 9:04

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