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The opening in the hex screw that holds the rear brake cable has become much looser than it used to be. What is the name of the part so I can order another one? (Hopefully they have some made of harder steel.)

enter image description here

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    Looking at the picture, for a second I thought that you had one frayed strand on the brake cable that you'd fitted with its own end-cap. But it's actually the front derailleur cable. :-D – David Richerby Aug 19 at 8:32
  • If you had one made of harder steel, then it would be likely to wear away the threaded hole it goes in to, and it is usually easier to replace a screw than a hole. The way to avoid wear of the socket is to use a better-fitting tool - some, e.g. Wera hex wrenches, have a particular profile which will help to avoid rounding-off. – Andrew Morton Aug 19 at 12:18
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    @AndrewMorton the screws on many cheap bikes appear to be made of tin-plated cheese. Replacing with stainless steel just means using sensible force to do them up (and M6 into reasonably deep aluminum can take quite a bit of torque) – Chris H Aug 19 at 12:26
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    If it is of any interest: I have replaced these screws with arbitrary ones from my "screw jar" which happened to fit, with good success. Just make sure the cable is caught properly. Of course stainless steel would be desirable, but like with my bike a little rust spot would go unnoticed on yours as well ;-). – Peter A. Schneider Aug 19 at 13:59
  • I have updated the picture so it is more clear. – fixit7 Aug 20 at 3:30
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Your picture shows a portion of a bicycle brake known as "direct pull" or "linear pull" or the Shimano label, "V-brakes." Utilizing a single cable, pulling the brake lever causes both arms to squeeze the braking surface of the rim.

The inner brake cable is held secure on one of the arms by the "cable fixing bolt" also termed "cable pinch bolt." The former is the term Shimano uses in their technical documents ( Shop Instructions and Dealer's Manual). This is generally an M6 x 12 mm hex cap bolt (sometimes labelled, hex cap screw, idk why as the threaded end is not pointed. Anyway, same thing). This is what we see in your photo.

You can spare yourself the damage to the hex head by using a 5 mm Allen key (the correct size for the M6 hex cap), making sure to fully insert the key into the hex slot. Keeping the key straight--in line with/parallel to-- the receiving hex hole and applying the torque perpendicular to this line helps keep the key fully engaged in the hex hole and puts the turning power on the largest area possible within the hex head. You may notice that a 3/16th Allen key seems to work good for these as well. Avoid using these because it is slightly small (4.75 mm) and when higher torque is needed to tighten, the smaller hex key can start to gall the inside of the hex cap. Eventually it becomes stripped as the interior angles are rounded. Using a badly worn hex key can also do the same thing.

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    I replaced the hex head bolt and bought a set of Park metric allen wrenches. I mistakenly thought that since Huffy is American, they used SAE bolts. – fixit7 Aug 21 at 1:32
  • Most all fasteners on bikes utilize metric. They haven't done away with pedal standard of 9/16" (most common size) or 1/2" (kids' bikes and some others). – Jeff Aug 21 at 5:03
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Brake cable anchor bolt, cable clamp bolt.

They usually have a special kind of washer that helps grip the cable.

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    AKA: Brake cable pinch bolt. – Jeff Aug 19 at 2:35
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    AKA: Cable Fixing Bolt is what it's termed by Shimano in their technical docs. Typically it's an M6 x 12 mm hex cap screw. – Jeff Aug 19 at 2:39
  • With either conical or rounded off heads to avoid unpleasant wounds. – Carel Aug 19 at 16:30

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