I need new limit screws for my rear and front derailleur. Bike shop wants to charge $5 for them when they probably cost $0.05 each. Can I just get my own screws from the hardware store or do derailleurs require specific screws? If the former, what measurements/etc should I look for as far as the shaft and threads are concerned? Also, what kind of thread locker should I get?

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    I bet you could remove the existing limit screws and bring them to a hardware store. I believe that the screws are going to differ on their length, their diameter, the thread pitch (how dense the screw threads are), probably the shape of the screw head, etc. I'd defer an actual answer to someone who's got a better idea of the variables and/or first hand experience.
    – Weiwen Ng
    Oct 28, 2019 at 17:41
  • In what situation would you need to replace limit screws ? Have they been stolen or backed out too far and lost ? Or are you tyrying to get moremovement ?
    – Criggie
    Oct 28, 2019 at 19:26
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    There was a previous similar question, I did a little research and concluded b and limit screws are standard M4 thread. I'd get stainless ones with a hex head. Oct 28, 2019 at 19:46
  • @Criggie In my trials of learning how to properly adjust the limits, I've adjusted them so much that they've become stripped. They're also some cheap metal, so I am going to get stainless steel and torx if available per your recommendation. I'll update later with the results when I get back from Menard's who usually sells individual screws at a decent price Oct 28, 2019 at 20:21
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    As @Argenti Apparatus suggested get stainless, with one caveat get allen head screws. Most multi-tools do not include a Torx bit but due include allen head drivers.
    – mikes
    Oct 28, 2019 at 21:25

3 Answers 3


I was once quoted by a retail plumbing supplier $16 per "fancy screw" for a shower fitting, and needed 6 of them. They were M3 grub screws with a pointed end, so not large.

Instead I went to a specialist bolt-and-fastener shop and got 10 of them for $0.48 each.

So your screws have certain parameters that must be met

  • Length
  • thickness
  • thread pitch
  • thread form

And some parameters that are optional, or variable.

  • Head format - philips/JIS or flathead or hex head or torx, or a thumbscrew, or a bolt head.... Make sure its some tool that is in your multitool
  • Head width and depth - doesn't matter as long as you have enough room for it.
  • Material - Stainless Steel would be advisable, but other steels could be workable too. Titanium may save a gram or so but would be expensive. Aluminium is too weak for this application

For a B tension screw, the end that faces the frame is relatively unsupported, and should be approximately rounded off so it doesn't bear on the hanger with a sharp corner. For Limit screws they press on steel lugs inside the mech.

Other than all that, any competent screw shop should be able to sort you out. Only downsides are that they may be wholesalers who want to sell by the hundred or by the box/pack. Also they may not do cash sales, so check first.

  • Criggie, can you clarify thread form? Thread pitch is, I believe, a standard term meaning the distance between the threads, and it's heard often enough in bike discussions. I see the description of form on Wikipedia, but I can't think of how threaded bike fasteners vary in form.
    – Weiwen Ng
    Oct 28, 2019 at 20:03
  • And what about thread locker? Should I just go with Loctite? Oct 28, 2019 at 20:22
  • @WeiwenNg fair enough - the thread form is the angles of the side of each thread. and has nothing directly to do with the pitch, which is how many complete turns it takes to advance the screw by a known distance (ie 24 TPI or 24 turns per inch) Thread form is probably a common 60 degree angle for this application.
    – Criggie
    Oct 28, 2019 at 20:24
  • @oscilatingcretin thread locker would be a good idea - it stops the screw from adjusting itself. The lightweight blue thread lock would be fine - need to be able to adjust the screws with hand tools.
    – Criggie
    Oct 28, 2019 at 20:25
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Based on the sizes listed on a couple of Shimano rear derailleurs, the limit screws (Shimano calls these "Stroke Adjusting Screws") are metric machine screws. Specifically, M4 x around 18 mm. M4 machine screws have 0.7 mm thread pitch and come with various types of heads (aka: caps) such as "hex socket head cap screw" or "flat head slotted cap screw" and others. As far as length goes, it can vary between the high and low limits (the low limit is usually about 2 mm longer). Some models of rear derailleur have identical lengths of limit screws (18 mm). Obviously you can remove the current screws to determine the necessary length, and the type of head is personal preference. Note that it's often easier to obtain a screwdriver than a 3 mm Allen key though I find the socket head cap screws don't strip out near as easy nor does the tool slip out of the business end as easily as a screwdriver.

A well stocked hardware store or home improvement department store (Home Depot, Lowe's, Fleet Farm, et al) will have these metric machine screws in their screw bins. They may be individual or packaged with 2-4 screws per package. You should find the price per single screw around $1 and far less as quantity increases in a package. Regarding length: this is easily adjusted by trimming excess length off a longer M4 screw with a hacksaw, rotary tool, or grinder. Again, 18 mm appears to cover most rear derailleur limit screw lengths. Thus, an M4 x 18 ...cap screw is what you're looking for.

As noted in some comments, blue or purple (loctite 222) thread locker will help prevent the limit screws from moving on their own but still allows for adjustment of the screws with a hand tool.


M3 and M4 are both in use for limit screws. My favorite is to use a wicking threadlocker in this application, either Loctite 290 or Vibra-tite 150. It tends to get really good penetration and works well when there have been problems with the screws working themselves loose. You apply it after adjusting and it locks things up pretty rigidly, but not so much you can't adjust later.

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