I've obtained information that is both consistent and inconsistent with Argenti. This page by Fairwheel Bikes says:
Due to ongoing changes in Campagnolo’s Ultra Torque design, it is very important you know exactly which bearing size you require before ordering your HSC ceramic bottom bracket kit. Over the years, Campy has changed from a 6805w7 bearing, to a 6805w6 bearing being used in their Ultra Torque bottom brackets. Essentially, the only difference is in the width of the bearing, varying from 7 mm to 6 mm (Hence the”w7” and “w6”).
That is, the standard specification for 6805 bearings is a 37mm outer diameter, a 25mm inner diameter (NB, the Ultra Torque spindle is 25mm wide), and a 7mm depth. At least some Ultra Torque bearings for threaded BB shells have a 6mm depth. I believe that the N suffix actually denotes this slightly shallower depth.
I am not certain when this change was made. I have found several forum threads where users refer to the 6805N bearings, such as this 2012 thread on Weight Weenies, this 2015 thread on Road Bike Review, and this single 2018 post on Road.cc's forum. Thus, I'd recommend you measure the bearing with a vernier caliper to be sure.
There may be additional suffixes denoting the type of seals. I can't confirm, but I would guess that your bearings came with full-contact rubber seals on both sides. The suffix for that seal arrangement is -2RS. I would probably default to getting a bearing with full-contact seals. The suffix -RD, as shown on Argenti's link, should denote a low-contact seal, and -2RU should denote a non-contact seal. These will produce lower friction, but also less protection against dirt or water intrusion. You will need to maintain the bearing more frequently. Oddly, I found a ceramic bearing sold by Aire Velo that uses the -2RS suffix but describes the seals as low-contact, so I'm not sure the suffix terminology is used consistently all the time.
Do note that you can pry the seals off carefully, flush the bearing with WD-40, and re-grease it with regular grease (you'll need a grease gun). This may save you from having to replace the bearing entirely.