my trail bike (only i've ever attached a rear rack) have a straight line from the seat stays holes to screw in the rear rack and the top clearance for the rear tire. my wife's fuji bike has the rear tire way higher than the holes on the seat stays.

Can i add any brand of rear rack to this bike? or should i look for something special for these cases?

fuji absolute 4.0 ladies

  • Is this a case where the rear brake is blocking access to the rack attachment points? If so, you'll need to find a creative solution to getting a rack on there. We did it with my wife's Trek Navigator, but it means the rack is limited in how much weight it can carry. (If this isn't the case, can you give us a close-up picture of the problem area?) Commented Oct 21, 2011 at 18:32
  • i will take the rack out of my bike and try to fix there to have an idea. i'm mostly worried that i will have to bend the suport 'wires'. or that i will have to put it too forward that side baskets will not be an option (main idea is to have side baskets for grocery shopping)
    – gcb
    Commented Oct 21, 2011 at 18:41
  • 1
    You're right to be concerned; bending a rack or it's stays (the support pieces that attach to the bike) can weaken the rack. How much weight will you be carrying? (If it's just the occasional bag of groceries or a bag for a day ride, there's not too much to worry about.) Commented Oct 22, 2011 at 2:40
  • we plan to use the rack for two side retractable baskets. but don't plan on carrying too much weight... i just installed it using brute force... and it appears to be too forward. guess that when i get the side baskets i will have problems
    – gcb
    Commented Oct 25, 2011 at 23:56

3 Answers 3


It takes a little bit of bravery the first time, but you can easily apply some force and bend the front rack stays to reach down to the seatstay. The rack stays are designed to be bent, and doing so doesn't appreciably reduce the carrying capacity of the rack. The majority of the load is carried down the vertical portions of the rack to the dropouts, and the horizontal stays are purely there to prevent the rack from rotating forward or backwards - their effect on the load bearing capacity of the rack is negligible. Many constructeur bikes do away with those stays entirely, bolting the rack directly to the rear fender.

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    I had to look up "constructeur bicycles" and found some great pictures and some with the type of rack you're talking about with no connection to the seat stays
    – Jason S
    Commented Oct 24, 2011 at 22:44
  • I know specifically that the instructions for Tubus racks actually tell you to do this. I had to do it to get over the brakes on my bike. I tour with a fairly heavy load and have never had any problems.
    – jimchristie
    Commented Oct 10, 2012 at 23:22

With racks, carrying capacity is far more important that brand or model. With the exception of racks that click into bags made by the same manufacturer (like Topeak), racks are mostly all the same. The exception to this is high-capacity touring racks, which get quite expensive and are overkill for anything but touring or hauling very heavy loads.

If you're concerned that you'll have to mount the rack on a bit of an angle, don't worry about that. However, if the rack stays are being blocked, then you have a problem that'll have to be solved with bending rack stays, and that'll reduce the effective carrying capacity and durability of the rack.

  • Will update this when I get an answer to my comment on the main question. Commented Oct 21, 2011 at 18:35

Another possible solution may be a seatpost mounted rack.They have a capacity of around 20lbs. Since they attach to the seatpost only there should be no clearance issues.

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