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I'm used to be able to turn the barrel adjuster on a rear derailleur to be able to bring the derailleur in or out (relative to the wheel). However, it doesn't seem like this particular derailleur works like that and I'm unable to find the equivalent.

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The product docs didn't help too much either: https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/xtr-m9000/RD-M9000-SGS.html

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    Your picture doesn't include the area where the adjuster would be, just above the top margin. – Daniel R Hicks Mar 28 at 22:20
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    And some derailers don't have an adjuster -- you're expected to have an inline one somewhere on the cable. – Daniel R Hicks Mar 28 at 22:22
  • added another pic into the question @DanielRHicks – Kyle Pennell Mar 29 at 1:12
  • Yeah, I looked at some images online and saw that it doesn't come with an adjuster. So what Criggie said. – Daniel R Hicks Mar 29 at 1:16
  • Epic photo of the bike btw, if a little artsy to show the RD specifics :D – Swifty Mar 29 at 11:16
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Page 19 of the linked Dealer Manual shows the barrel is in the shifter, up on the bars.

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From https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-RD0004-09-ENG.pdf

If yours doesn't have one, are you using a different/wrong or off-brand shifter? You will need to fit an in-line barrel adjuster like this:

From https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/38155/shifter-with-stuck-barrel-adjuster

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What @Criggie said because there is no adjuster on these derailleurs, as you have discovered.

Additionally, I find it possible to get gears working without an adjuster, or with the adjuster screwed all the way in - after all, Shimano have done the hard work already in engineering. You would set the high limit screw so the guide pulley is perfectly in line with smallest cog and then attach the cable so that it is tight, but nothing excessive. This works if the derailleur is nicely aligned and the cable has been pulled carefully or ridden so that the housing is 'bedded in'.

This way gives you maximum adjustment later, or if in a real pinch and no barrel adjusters are present at all, a way to set it up for now until sourcing an in-line adjuster. It's what I do now when setting up derailleurs, not least because it gives confidence that the high limit screw is properly set while also giving a neat look.

It works as well for the front derailleur but those are a little more sensitive, still works though if all is aligned well. You might try the 'hack' of setting the L limit screw a little tight, attaching the cable and then relaxing the limit screw back into place but be careful not to mash the cable by doing too many iterations.

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