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I am attempting to fit Shimano Deore M6000 brakes to my 2017 Trek Stache. The rear brake contacts the frame near the bleed port and keeps me from being able to fully align the caliper to the disk.

The caliper is really close to having enough play in it to get aligned to the rotor. Can I file about 1 to 1.5mm off of the caliper body right where its contacting the frame?

I know there are other brakes I could buy which would clear the frame. For reference the bike came with Tektro M285 calipers which had plenty of space. I've done my research about what other brakes can fit, but I like the M6000 levers compared to others in my price range.

M6000 Caliper Contacting Frame

Bleed Valve Screw

  • Can you see through the bleed port how thick the wall is there? Is the part returnable at this time? (it won't be at all after you modify it!) – Criggie Apr 9 at 2:54
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    Yeah the top screw there is the bleed valve, the bleed port is down the side facing the camera. The wall around that screw is probably 5-6mm. Added picture. Just received today so totally returnable at this point. – joel reindel Apr 9 at 3:05
  • Seems like you have a +20 mm PM adapter in there. Is it really necessary to run whatever rotor size you currently have, or could you change to one size smaller? – Walto Salonen Apr 9 at 15:06
  • Yeah. Spacer needed for the 180mm rotor – joel reindel Apr 9 at 15:31
  • I'll add for those who might think that the brake mount should have just been on the seat stay like every other bike, that the Stache has a sliding rear dropout so you can run it single speed and the brake mounts to that sliding dropout. – joel reindel May 20 at 20:43
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I though about it long and hard and consulted a friend who works for yeti in manufacturing. Figured there is some margin for manufacturing tolerance and factor of safety.

Filing worked like a charm. Wet sanded and polished the cut afterwards and it looks great. I figured the only real worry at that spot on the caliper is structural support in case of a crash, but its protected behind the seat stay, so a little less is probably not an issue. Besides, this is the kind of material removal that might happen in a crash.

Cleaned it all up with isopropyl alcohol, toothbrush, and compressed air afterwards.

Just after filing Test Fit Test Fit After Polishing

I may put some color match paint on there at some point.

Doing this was ultimately up to me and to the average person I wouldn't recommend this, but I knew I could do it well so I went for it.

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  • Be super careful to avoid overtorquing the bleed port, if anything, tighten it lower than recommended torque (its the 0Ring keeps the fluid in/air out). Theres not a lot of meat left around there and it could easily develope a crack. For me, as much as I love Shimano Brakes, on that frame I would not use them. – mattnz May 10 at 1:40
  • How deep/long is the screw head? I think the screw threads start where there is almost full wall thickness. So there should be minimal risk of cracking. Looks good! – Michael May 10 at 4:47
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    Tidy job, it even seems like you could have removed a little less material (easy to say with hindsight). obviously comes under personal risk choices, readers should make up their own minds about doing this. – Swifty May 10 at 8:36
  • It worked out fine. The fit is passable but I really needed more off to get the disk centered properly, but I don't dare take off any more. Its fine, but I maybe a different brake on the back would have been a better option. – joel reindel May 20 at 20:39

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