I got this new bike over a week ago, and I was trying to fix the bike's derailing system and I can't seem to get it fixed.

I tried watching a ton of videos online on how to adjust your derailleurs and the outcome is the same for me; nothing works. So I'm wondering if anybody could give some advice on what I could try to do. The current problem is that the rear cassette keeps skipping shifts whenever I try to shift; I can't adjust it properly.

Note: I have made this bike into a e-bike so not sure if that would make a difference for anything.

Here is a link to a video of the shifting not working correctly https://streamable.com/jot1hu

This is a photo of the rear derailleur:

Rear derailleur

  • It's not entirely clear what the issue is. Are you trying to shift down but the chain does not quite make it onto the next bigger sprocket? Commented Apr 25, 2020 at 23:09
  • I see now, it's popping up two sprockets. Be aware modern shifters will change up more than 1 gear in a full push of the lever. You have a 7 speed derailleur and shifter, right? Commented Apr 25, 2020 at 23:26
  • Yeah, I have a 7 speed derailleur and shifter, and the thing is when I first got the bike it wasn't as bad as this, but ever since I tried to fix it things have gotten worse and whenever I try to change the barrel adjuster on the bottom sometimes I feel like it will get a little better but then it won't ever fall back into the highest gear (smallest cassette) unless I undo what I did to the barrel adjuster. Commented Apr 26, 2020 at 0:29

1 Answer 1


Here's a way to set an initial cable position for your rear shifter.

First, if required, open the limit screws on the rear mech so that the chain can get out to the biggest and smallest cogs. If you didn't change these, they should be okay.

  1. Set the right-hand shifter on the hardest setting (that's the one with the most slack on the wire)
  2. Set the chain on the second-smallest cog.
  3. Set the barrel adjuster to between 1/3 and half-way in.
  4. Relax the pinch bolt on the rear mech that is holding the inner cable.
  5. Make sure all the cable outers are in their stops, both in the frame and up at the shifter. They can pop out sometimes.
  6. Pull through as much cable as you can without significantly moving the rear mech, and tighten up the pinch bolt enough for testing.

Now as you hand-pedal the cranks, the chain should drop into the smallest cog. Work through the gears while slowly pedalling, and the chain should move one cog per click.

If you press the shifter for an easier gear (larger cog) and the chain isn't quite moving up, then back out the barrel adjuster a half-turn at a time.

Likewise if you pull the release for a harder gear and the chain doesn't move down, the wind the barrel adjuster in a half turn. Check through all gears whenever you make an adjustment, because everything effects everything.

Two last tasks,

  1. make sure the pinch bolt is done up tightly enough to not slip but not so tight it strips the threads or the head.
  2. check the limit screws - the chain must NOT be able to jump over the top of the biggest cog. It should be barely just able to stay there in normal riding, because frame flex and your leg power can give it the chance to get over the top and that will break things. Perhaps not so bad with your super short spokes, but not good. The lower limit screw does the same, but at the small cog a chain off can damage your frame and axle. Neither is good.

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