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I just took delivery of my first road bike. I guess it's an entry-level to intermediate level bike. I need to do a bit of assembly, and there weren't any instructions. It seems reasonably straightforward, but I just want to ensure I'm doing it right.

I found a couple of questions here:
Assembly of New Bike
What do I grease and what do I lubricate?

But what I'm wondering about specifically is what I need to put grease on now. I've figured out that I should put some inside the frame before installing the seatpost, and I should put some on the threads of the pedals before installing. But what about the front wheel axle? Am I supposed to put grease there before tightening everything up? I realise it's maybe a basic question, but I'm a newbie and as I said, I just want to ensure I'm doing things right.

Edit to add: The bike is a Scott Speedster 30.


  • FRAME Double Butted 6061 Alloy
  • FORK Carbon 1 1/8" Carbon steerer

From linked website

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  • Is there any chance you can take a photograph of the bike as it is now? I'm trying to get at what condition they shipped it to you in. I'd assume that the seller removed the seatpost and at least the front wheel. Is any other component removed, e.g. the crankset, is the cassette installed on the rear wheel, are the tires installed? – Weiwen Ng May 22 '20 at 20:16
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    In general you should not need to lubricate anything. The wheel hubs should be properly lubricated from the factory, the chain should be waxed. A little lube squirted down the seat tube helps to ward off rust inside the frame but you should be careful to not overdo. The slightest dab of oil on the pedal threads will aid assembly, but this is far from necessary. – Daniel R Hicks May 22 '20 at 20:51
  • (Understand that, if you received the bike as a frame with crank and headset attached, derailers mounted, etc, and complete with wheelset, then it's designed to be assembled by a 19-year-old in a department store. All necessary lubes, etc, will already be applied.) (Hint: Read the assembly instructions that came with the bike.) – Daniel R Hicks May 23 '20 at 0:59
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    @DanielRHicks greasing pedal threads is totally necessary if you ever want to remove them again – whatsisname May 23 '20 at 5:57
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    Comments are not mini answers. – ojs May 23 '20 at 8:14
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This is for your specific bike.

Must grease:

  • Pedal threads
  • Seatpost unless frame or post are carbon, then must apply carbon prep instead

Things that usually have an adequate amount of grease or other prep pre-applied, but should be checked and greased otherwise:

  • BB threads

  • Stem bolts (many are pre-loctited and don't need extra lubrication if so)

  • Crank bolts

Things that are nice touches to grease, not critical, and probably won't have it pre-applied:

  • RD pivot bolt

  • Chainring bolts

  • Cassette lockring

  • QR shafts and threads

  • Brake pad mounting hardware

  • All headset contact surfaces, i.e. the bearing surfaces and compression ring.

Also it's ideal to put carbon prep on the stem contact of the steerer. Not utterly critical, but it lets you feel good about running the minimum torque value for the stem binder bolts.

The "not critical" items are all good ideas to grease to prevent future issues with corrosion. The post and pedals are less negotiable; issues with seizing are very likely without lubrication. That's a factor on the other ones too, but the other thing you're trying to achieve by greasing threads is to make sure correct thread preload is applied. Anti-seize can be used instead on any of the threads. It's way messier, which is why it's not as popular, but is more specifically formulated for both jobs, so you won't get in any trouble using it and there are good arguments for its superiority.

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    Though I'd keep all lube away from brake pad mounting hardware because of possible migration of lube to the pads and the braking surfaces. – Carel May 23 '20 at 7:36
  • Another must grease (though not in case of OP’s bicycle): Quill stems. I think the only component one mustn’t grease is the ratchet mechanism of freehubs (and of course brake surfaces). – Michael May 23 '20 at 8:08
  • @Carel Reasonable enough if it works. One drop of oil or small dot of grease on the internal part of the threads though will eliminate the problem of the pad twisting as it's torqued, and also of corroding due to climate reasons, a bigger deal in some places than others. – Nathan Knutson May 23 '20 at 18:49
  • "Seatpost unless frame or post are carbon"... well the Scott website lists the frame as alloy, but doesn't say what the seatpost is. How can I tell? – osullic May 24 '20 at 9:13
  • @osullic Usually they'll say it loud and clear as a selling point when anything is carbon fiber so it's likely not. When you have the bike in hand you'll be able to see. – Nathan Knutson May 24 '20 at 15:13
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When assembling things, you're often keen to get it together and enjoy the item. So its tempting to take shortcuts.

Personally I would take the time and use a copper-based antisieze product or a grease on any thread/bolt, whether a big load bearing fastener like a pedal, or a small accessory mount like a light or reflector.

The only parts I would assemble bare would be the pinch bolt on brakes and derailleurs because friction is important to hold the wire.


I'd also verify the pre-assembled bits like the BB by doing a basic M check after assembly, or ask another cyclist to look over your work and see what you might have missed.


Updated - your bike has an aluminium alloy frame and a carbon fibre fork with a carbon fibre steerer tube. It should have carbon-fibre assembly paste between the carbon fibre steerer and the aluminium stem. I can't see what the seatpost or handlebars are made of, but I'd assume aluminium.

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