The left to right side tension numbers you have are thoroughly normal. 70%-ish is where a lot of disc wheels land.
Once you're actually building the wheel, as opposed to planning it, you're only looking at the more tensioned side to see how close you are to your target tension. The other side falls where it falls. Since you're within the recommended range now, stopping would be perfectly reasonable. The extra 10kgf on the drive side would buy you more strength but also a little less fatigue resistance in exchange, plus you're in the range where windup can be a handful. (Sometimes while learning, builders can overshoot tension and make the wheel unstable, even to the point of ruining it, but this rim is likely far too stout for that.) It's not a totally marginal amount of strength gained, especially if the wheel is going to see the kind of riding where it will die by violence before it ever dreams of cracking from fatigue, but there are tradeoffs either way and you'll gain some experience in making the call either way.
Note also that this is the exact place where the whole third power of the smallest inscribed diameter thing comes into play in a major way for a newer wheelbuilder; getting that extra 10kgf out of 1.7s and still having a windup free finished wheel is well within what a skilled wheelbuilder can do, but it takes practice to get there. Presuming your tensiometer is telling you right, you won't be able to do it successfully without good overshoot and backlash technique. The reasonable limit for a 1.7 even for an expert is probably about 130, and in practice most applicable rims max out at 120 like yours. In comparison, if they were 1.8s it would be much easier, and 2.0s make it trivial. Yet on the flip side, the nagging irony is that thinner spokes mean more elasticity which means more innate resistance to rim fatigue, which brings the choice to go for more strength closer to being all upside. Most of the time, it would be the right thing to do in a professional setting I feel.