I'll expand on the option of tubeless, but I recognize that it may not be the best solution for the OP. The OP will either need to acquire some technical expertise, or pay a bike store to mount the tires and learn to insert a tube in a tubeless tire. This may or may not be worth the cognitive effort. There is an argument for using what you know. Also, it may require new equipment.
Tubeless tires obviously have no inner tube. The tire is designed to be airtight in combination with the rim and with latex sealant. That sealant offers protection against most punctures. It will seal most punctures without rider intervention. You do lose a bit of pressure while this happens.
On mountain bikes and gravel bikes, the technology is very well regarded. I'm not sure about its use in bicycle touring. However, touring bikes should have relatively wide tires at much lower pressures than performance road bikes. In the latter category, the high pressures demand very tight fits between the tire and rims, and the standards for both are still evolving. I'd expect tubeless to perform well in touring setups, but I don't have any personal experience.
Tubeless may require new tires and rims. You need to use a tire that's specifically designed to be set up tubeless. The same is true for rims, although many current rims are tubeless compatible even if they were sold with inner tubes.
In terms of logistics, many of us pay bike stores to mount the tires. I think that tubeless tires generally fit tighter than tubed clinchers. There are definitely a few new techniques to learn with tubeless, e.g. sometimes an air compressor or CO2 cartridge is needed to seat the tires, after which you need to inject sealant or else the tire won't remain airtight, and the sealant requires refreshing every few months. In the field, if you have a puncture that self-seals, you can just top up the pressure. Some slightly larger punctures may need you to insert a tubeless plug (here is one review of a Dynaplug kit) into the hole, then reinflate the tire. If you are out of plugs and the tire won't seal, or if the tire has been cut, you should boot any big cuts (which you would do on a tubed clincher anyway), and you can then insert an inner tube and keep riding. Thus, you do want a spare tube with a tubeless tire anyway, although you may well not use it. If a rider's hand strength makes it difficult to remove and replace a tire bead (e.g. to put in a tube), then they would still need to consider something like the Kool Stop bead jack mentioned in the original post.
Again, this answer is provided for general information. It may be an option for some. However, it is trickier to use and maintain. One good general guide to tubeless tires is here, but this site generally focuses less on touring applications. As yet, tubeless is not yet clearly superior to tubed clinchers for performance road cyclists, although I'm not certain about the state of play in touring.