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My bike has a CS-HG500-10 cassette which has reached its EOL after 7400 km (I didn't think that changing the chain, unless absolutely necessary, was something good). It's the 11-34 version, I-CSHG50010134.

https://www.bike-components.de/de/Shimano/Kassette-CS-HG500-10-10-fach-p43864/?o=100330-universal-11-34

Is it possible to replace it with an XT cassette, like the Shimano XT CS-M771-10, I-CSM77110134?

https://www.bike-components.de/de/Shimano/XT-Kassette-CS-M771-10-10-fach-p24985/?o=300330-silber-11-34

Also, could I replace it with an 11-36 version, instead of 11-34, without changing anything else? That would make it a bit easier if I'm on a steep climb, right? Or would it not be beneficial?

Both require the same CN-HG95 chain, which indicates that they're pretty much compatible.

Or would anyone recommend against that switch from CS-HG500-10 to CS-M771-10?

What tools do I need, to be able to replace the old one?


The reason I need to change the cassette is because I replaced the old chain with a new one, and that new one was constantly some sort of jumping when I put a bit stronger pressure on the pedals. At first I thought that I somehow misaligned the gears, because I did a thorough cleaning of the bike on that day, but all the attempts to get that jumping fixed failed. Then I realized that it may be because the length of the new chain was shorter, it may be that the cassette became worn out too much. I had the old chain in my backpack, so I replaced the new one with it and the problem went away.

The chain has 108 segments and this is how they compare in length due to wear:

enter image description here

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  • The reason your cassette is jumping is that you replaced the chain too late, by which point it had destroyed your cassette. I.e. the old chain wore down the cassette teeth, which meant the new non-stretched chain doesn't fit with the worn down cassette. – thelawnet Nov 11 '20 at 10:34
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Firstly it's generally a good idea to change chains at around 0.75% wear. This means a cassette will last for several chains, since there is little wear on cassette , chainrings and jockey wheels when the chain is new/not stretched.

However 7400km is not bad.

You don't indicate the state of your other components but normally if a chain goes beyond 1% wear it will have destroyed the cassette and possibly chainrings as well if left long enough

So you will need new chain and cassette. Most chains on eBay and Amazon sellers are fake so don't buy there unless you are very sure about the seller. There really is not too much difference in 10 speed chain durability, but many people prefer KMC for having the quicklink which is easier to fit than Shimano pins.

The XT cassette will not shift better than yours and probably is not more durable (it's Chrome plated rather tha nickel, but given your 7400km your current cassette seems reasonably durable already). The main difference is around 50g of weight thanks to use of aluminium spider arms (the cogs are still steel). 11-36t cassettes aren't as heavy as modern 12 speed cassettes where they go up to 50t or more, meaning that XT has a bigger weight difference.

There is no problem with going to xt cassettes rather than Deore , but not really any real benefit. If the cost difference is small, why not.

To replace the cassette you will need a cassette lockring tool. In my experience the cheap ones on eBay from China for about $3 work just fine. But a branded Park Tool Shimano or similar will be nicer. If you buy the lockring tool you will need either an adjustable wrench or a socket drive. The cassette force is 40Nm which is quite a lot so it's not a bad idea to use a reasonable sized wrench,not the smallest one. OTOH you can overtighten and if you are not mechanically sympathetic you would maybe like to use a torque wrench. These are quite expensive so most people do not bother. IME you get it hand tight plus just a click or two more. If it is not tight enough when fitting you will destroy the freehub body threads over time. If it is too tight then you will possibly destroy the lockring threads and it won't turn properly

You also need a chain whip tool. A $3 Chinese one also works fine, or you can make your own. Fancy tools aren't required here as it's just a bit of chain to stop the freehub body moving

There is a guide here https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/cassette-removal-and-installation

Edit: 11-34 Vs 11-36 is not much difference; check your RD Spec. Some are specced for 11-34 e.g rd-t670. Probably it's better to stick with 11-34 for these. But it will most likely work fine. With your 11-36 you will have to cut the chain slightly longer than you would for 11-34

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  • I added a picture of the chain and a description of the problem I had. – Daniel F Nov 11 '20 at 10:07
  • If the OP upgrades to 11s or higher, the recommendation is to change the chain at 0.5. .75 is correct for 10s, though. This is just a clarification for future reference. – Weiwen Ng Nov 11 '20 at 13:35
  • @WeiwenNg I'm not sure if I communicated this correctly, but with 11-36 I meant that the smallest sprocket has 11 pinions and the biggest one 36, while still staying at 10 sprockets (speeds) in total. – Daniel F Nov 11 '20 at 17:16
  • @thelawnet What does the RD in RD Spec mean? – Daniel F Nov 11 '20 at 17:39
  • rear derailleur; what rear derailler model number do you have? – thelawnet Nov 11 '20 at 17:42
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A Shimano 10-speed MTB cassette is a 10-speed Shimano MTB cassette. There is no functional difference.

The differences will be only in the weight or the durability (the rate of wear) due to different materials.

And some possibly very minor differences in the construction like whether the sprockets are rivetted together or not. Mostly irrelevant to most users.

You can use whichever version you like.


There are many Q/As about changing a cassette here. You need a cassette tool with a wrench and a chain whip. It is pretty simple.

A torque wrench would be a bonus, the required torque range (say 30-50 N.m) is pretty large so can be guessed by feel. It must be pretty tight.

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